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Originally Posted by hipster duck
Good post! I hope more people reply.
Winnipeg sounds like a rustbelt American experience in a good way. More than anything, I'm fascinated about how these places - despite all the obstacles thrown at them - attract very inventive people who are bursting with civic pride. There aren't many of them - they may be <1% of the metro population - but they make all the difference and can make just about any place exciting and absorbing.
I have a soft spot for Edmonton since I spent a summer there when I was in university, and also found the place to be crawling with characters. Maybe that's changed? Edmonton doesn't have good bones, but it has a bit of an Angeleno vastness to it, especially on the north side along streets like 118 Ave. NW. All that street needs is more people and better transit.
Calgary definitely feels bigger than Edmonton and doesn't make the same number of mistakes. I'm impressed with the calibre of their arts projects, and how they've just put all their public realm effort into making their riverfront sing. Calgarians remind me of what Torontonians used to be like: insecure, maybe a little haughty, but ambitious and with a hustle to be recognized and to make it into the big leagues with legitimate accomplishments. We can scoff at those things, but cities that think that way eventually succeed, especially in Canada, where we have a short memory, we don't venerate things, and we don't let cities rest on their laurels.
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Thanks!
Winnipeg definitely has some Rust Belt vibes, although I think Hamilton and Windsor are better analogues to the Rust Belt. Winnipeg just has some deep Midwest/Plains vibes. It could be Omaha. Or Milwaukee. Winnipeg didn't really de-industrialize in the same way that the Rust Belt did - it still has a lot of manufacturing and processing.
There's also a provincialism and a defeatist attitude that permeates in Winnipeg in many respects that reminds me of Edmonton 10-20 years ago. Actually, aside from all the old stuff, Winnipeg's vibe reminds me of Edmonton in the '00s. Kind of hungover from past glory days still (for Edmonton it was the 1970s-1980s, for Winnipeg it is the 1900s-1910s), fairly small town/suburban in mindset, while you're starting to see more projects occur again indicating that the nadir is over.
But there is, as you mention, a lot of people in Winnipeg content with being there and enjoying what it offers while trying to make it better. And that's great - Winnipeg is a very underrated city and has a lot of great things going for it. However, things I unknowingly took for granted previously in Edmonton also became apparent. Like the momentum. There's not much momentum in Winnipeg. You kinda gotta take it as it is. It's not trying to be Calgary like Edmonton is. Also the lack of a functional public transit system is a major turn-off. But, if you don't mind criss-crossing stroads every now and then, a lot of the city is very walkable. More than Edmonton or Calgary.
Another thing I alluded to in my original post that I think Winnipeg does surprisingly well is food. There's a real variety of (often) cheap, generous, good food in the city. It was a lot harder finding the same in Calgary, especially in the core, where it is very much like Downtown Toronto - either chains or high end pretentious spots. Obviously Calgary (and Edmonton) have great restaurants, but there's a lot more overpriced nonsense in both cities. I like Winnipeg's lack of pretense.
I also think there is something to be said for appreciating Edmonton's vulgar urbanism. You spend enough time looking at the utter absurdity of the city (or are reminded of it from out-of-towners getting gobsmacked) and you end up just kind of laughing it off and embracing it to some extent. There was a poster on here once that said there will inevitably be some future artistic movement obsessed with the kitsch of Edmonton. I think there's something to be said for embracing the ugliness of Edmonton's vernacular. As much as it tries to be Calgary (and Calgary tries to be Toronto), it often misses the mark, but it's a form of comedy in a way.
What is really intriguing is that Edmonton is the Alberta city with the more established arts roots, but the city's vernacular betrays aesthetic sensibilities in many ways. On top of that, while the gulf between Edmonton and Calgary in terms of the arts used to be much wider, I do think that has narrowed considerably in the past 10 years. The National Music Centre, the better exhibits at the Glenbow compared to the AGA, emergent local artists, festivals like Sled Island, and far better public art (in aggregate - Edmonton does have some nice public art) are emblematic of this. Edmonton's new AGA opened in 2010 and after a few years, the quality of exhibits started going downhill with a lack of funding. A lot of local galleries have also closed in the past 5-7 years. The new RAM is honestly kind of boring for what it is.
It's also really weird how much worse Edmonton's 'bones' are compared with Calgary's. Now, Calgary has been given a huge leg up with some nice infill and public realm improvements, but still. There aren't any Inglewoods lying around. And yet, both cities are and have been almost in constant lockstep population-wise since the 1890s. Edmonton didn't have a smaller pre-war footprint than Calgary (in fact it was a bit larger back then) so it definitely had an extent of pre-automobile era urbanism comparable to Calgary. While Whyte Ave looks nicer than 17th in general (aided by the frontier-ish old buildings), the other main streets in Edmonton are pretty ugly except 97th Street. Jasper Ave, especially west of 109th is a stroad with little architectural value along it (although it is improving). 124th Street is a very odd hodgepodge of architecture. Alberta Avenue (118th) is quite shabby. 109th Street would be forgettable if not for its proximity to the UofA. Comparatively, 1st Ave NE in Bridgeland, 10th and Kensington in Kensington, 9th Ave in Inglewood, 8th Ave downtown, and 4th St in Mission are pretty nice. Sure, there's shabbier main streets like 33 Ave SW in Marda Loop, Centre St in Crescent Heights, and Bowness Road, but it's not quite as stark as in Edmonton where it's Whyte, 97th, and then the rest. The Beltline is also a better high-density residential urban neighbourhood than Oliver.
I like your comment about Edmonton having a feeling of a sort-of 'Angelino vastness'. Winnipeg and Calgary are also sprawly, but in Edmonton it hits different. All those shoulder roads in the 1940s-1960s residential neighbourhoods along major arterials definitely help this sense. And just how the city is an enormous grid with generously sized streets.
I also like your remark regarding Calgary's haughty-but-ambitious drive. It's impressive. There's a real positivity and energy to Calgary that even Edmonton, despite shedding its previous parochialisms to some extent, lacks. It's dynamic. And even though it is in the same rung as Ottawa and Edmonton in terms of size, there's a reason it is often the next thought of city after Toronto, Montreal, and Vancouver, and is the closest thing to a "big city" for the Prairies. People are sometimes surprised Edmonton is significantly bigger than Winnipeg. People don't make that mistake with Calgary.