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Posted Sep 18, 2007, 6:50 AM
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Barney's opens Wednesday
Quote:
Barneys likely to give already bustling Union Square retailers lift
George Raine, Chronicle Staff Writer
Monday, September 17, 2007
It's not a scientific analysis, but from her office window overlooking Union Square, retail consultant Ellen Magnin Newman can pretty well measure the district's economy by counting shopping bags.
"After the dot-com bubble burst and 9/11, I would look out the window and see no one on the streets," said Newman. "Now I look out and see armloads of packages. There's a babble of tongues. There's been constant growth of the area, probably since 2005."
San Francisco retailers were in economic quicksand five years ago, and while recovery has taken its own sweet time, there has been a burst of new stores of late, particularly in the luxury category. One of the most noteworthy additions will come this week with the opening Wednesday of Barneys New York, the very stylish luxury specialty store, on Union Square.
Others are coming: De Beers, the jeweler, will open kitty-corner to Shreve & Co. on Post Street this winter; Prada, the couture designer clothier, will move from Geary Street to larger quarters in the old, long-vacant Brooks Brothers building on Post Street after the first of the year; and designer Helmut Lang plans a luxury shop for Maiden Lane, to name a few. They're joining a parade of luxury brands established in Union Square and in the San Francisco Centre.
"Considering how small San Francisco is, we are second strongest for the retail market in the country," meaning second only to New York in gross sales for many retailers, said Vikki Johnson, a principal at the San Francisco real estate firm Johnson Hoke Ltd., which is focused on Union Square.
Johnson, who brokered the transactions for Barneys, the H&M store on Powell Street and De Beers, said the flurry of business reflects San Francisco's recovery and unusual concentration of customer bases within a five-block radius - hotel districts south of Market Street and west of Union Square, the theater district, convention and business districts and, increasingly, upscale residential options, all within an easy walk to and from Union Square and the Westfield San Francisco Centre.
"I think Barneys and H&M are two of the most significant deals in the San Francisco market," said Johnson, "bringing in a brand-new component in both categories, luxury (Barneys) and midpriced (H&M)."
Barneys New York is the buzz du jour. It has taken over the old Joseph Magnin building at Stockton and O'Farrell streets where, real estate sources say, the company is spending $35 million to gut and transform the space into a temple of fashion.
Howard Socol, Barneys New York board chairman and chief executive officer, said the company does not disclose such figures, but he said the business plan in San Francisco is to create "a jewel box, not a mega-size store but a specialty store."
The store's new address certainly has plenty of history behind it.
In its first life, the 1907 building at 77 O'Farrell St. (also given the address of 48 Stockton St.) housed the Newman & Levinson Fancy Goods Store. In 1914, Joseph Magnin, in his first and only commercial real estate transaction, leased the building and bought the company. The store bore his name at midcentury and was an iconic San Francisco clothier and purveyor of jewelry and other fine goods until its sale in 1970. From 1989 until 2003, it was the San Francisco flagship of FAO Schwarz until the upscale toy retailer was trounced by cheaper mass discounters.
Ellen Magnin Newman, now "more than 70," grew up in the building her grandfather had taken over, playing retail merchant with her brother, Donald, and worked there until it was sold. She said she couldn't be happier with its new lease on life.
"It's a very lively company, interesting, exciting," she said of Barneys New York. "It's much better than a toy store.
"There was a time and a place for Joseph Magnin, and there was a time and a place for it to go away," she said.
Competition awaits Barneys, whether it be from Wilkes Bashford Co., Neiman Marcus or Saks Fifth Avenue, at the higher-end price points, but retailers like Richard Horne, the president of Shreve & Co., think that's a good thing.
"Long run, it's healthy. Brings in more shoppers," Horne said of Barneys' entry into the market and competition.
Shreve's business itself this year is 20 percent higher than its pre- 9/11 sales, said Horne. That reflects the region's recovery, the health of the luxury category and an infusion of European visitors who, with the U.S. dollar weakened, can buy luxury items for less than they can at home.
Sales tax figures from the San Francisco Controller's Office help tell the tale: For the 12 months ended March 31, San Francisco's 1 percent share of sales tax collected by Union Square merchants was $11.7 million. That compares with $10.3 million for the same period in 2006 and $9.1 million in 2005. Of those totals, sales tax from apparel stores in the district produced $3.8 million for the year ended March 31; $3.2 million in the same period in 2006; and $2.6 million in 2005.
Citywide, San Francisco collected nearly $121 million for the year ended in March, and of that $11 million was from sales in apparel stores, trailing only restaurants and miscellaneous retail. The citywide figure was $114.5 million in 2006 and $105.7 million in 2005.
"That's very healthy and shows a rebound in our local economy," said Todd Rydstrom, director of budget and analysis at the controller's office.
Economic fundaments bode well for continued growth in retail and for hotels, said Rick Swig, chief executive of RSBA & Associates, a hotel and resort consultancy in San Francisco.
"The last cycle, in 2000, was built with the smoke and mirrors of the dot-coms. This cycle, with technology and the biotech world, is firmly based on a solid foundation, and in the national corporate economy, business is good," said Swig. "When business is good, companies send people to conferences. San Francisco is among the top five conference destinations."
San Francisco hotels are prospering, compared with the downturn of 2001-2003, when occupancy sank to around 60 percent or less. In June, the occupancy rate in Union Square/Moscone Center hotels was 81.7 percent, compared with 80.6 percent a year ago, according to PKF Consulting in San Francisco, which tracks the industry.
At the Handlery Union Square Hotel, the rate was 97.5 percent in August, said Jon Handlery, the general manager.
"A lot of that is the shopping - and people seeing 'Jersey Boys,' " said Handlery. "It's the best shopping, almost equal to New York. ... That sells people on coming to San Francisco rather than Los Angeles."
Is such a wealth of high-end shops in a concentrated area off-putting to some? "I think not for the San Francisco market," said Linda Mjellem, executive director of the Union Square Association, representing retailers and other stakeholders. "And I think not for the San Francisco visitor. Our niche is in luxury," she said of the square, "and we have grown eclectically with the addition of these stores that cater to a younger, edgier market."
Barneys is a good fit, said retail consultant Helen Bulwick of New Market Solutions in Oakland, "because it is great fashion apparel, high quality, urban and young, and there's nothing comparable on the square. "
Barneys is known for - in addition to women's shoes - establishing relationships with and encouraging young designers and catering to, as chief executive Socol put it, "great customers who favor fabulous luxury goods."
The price points are many, noted Michael Celestino, Barneys' executive vice president and director of stores, from $95 sneakers to $10,000 suits - and much more than that for select designer women's items. The average age of Barneys' customers is mid-30s to early 40s, but "it's much less about age than it is about attitude," he said, that being "a fashion intelligence, a fashion sense."

E-mail George Raine at [email protected].
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http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cg.../MNH0S5UB3.DTL
And more:
Quote:
Barneys prepares to bow in S.F. with luxurious new store
Sylvia Rubin, Chronicle Fashion Editor
Monday, September 17, 2007
Irene Banks, who was shopping at the Barneys New York outlet in Napa last weekend, is no stranger to the mystique of this store, whose small selection of fall items she was perusing. Whenever she visits Manhattan, she faithfully visits the Madison Avenue specialty retailer known for its high prices and high-concept merchandising.
Does she spend a lot of money there? "No, no. You go to look. It's Barneys!" said the stylish Toronto real estate agent. "I might buy a pair of sunglasses or a belt or a white poplin shirt that is practical but has just enough pizzazz to make it different."
After months of construction and burgeoning buzz among those who swoon over a perfect seam, a new 60,000-square-foot, six-story Barneys New York opens in downtown San Francisco on Wednesday.
Gawkers and glitterati, hold on to your handbags. The place is pricey, pretentious, original, intimidating, trendy, fun and hip, and after all these years, through bankruptcy and multiple owners, it's still one of the retail world's more desirable destinations.
This is where you'll find the store's signature "fairy blue" skin-toned mannequins. Twenty thousand pairs of shoes. A $14,000 Vionnet gown. Phone-booth-size parfum sniffing chambers. A $75 tube of lipstick by Serge Lutens. (Refills are only $30.)
Nobody goes to Barneys to bargain hunt, though that's how it all began back in 1923, when Barney Pressman hocked his wife's engagement ring to start his menswear emporium in New York.
He offered tailored clothing by well-known names at prices far below list. For years, that was what the store was all about. But the company changed its discount image in the mid-'80s and has since gone through more transformations than Madonna.
From affordable to snobbishly expensive, from family-owned to conglomerate takeovers and most recently through a protracted billion-dollar bidding war, the brand has survived and further raises the bar set by the new Bloomingdale's and other Westfield Centre boutiques that opened in downtown San Francisco last year.
The chain, which was acquired last month by the Dubai investment firm Istithmar for $942.3 million in cash, will continue to expand its reach. Several new stores (all with the trademark red canopies) have opened recently in Seattle, Dallas and Boston. Stores in Las Vegas and Phoenix are coming soon.
Why does the Barneys name seem to be so resilient when so many department stores find themselves struggling? It's known for having some of the best buyers in the business, who stock items that are unusual, not just expensive - and that makes the place more of a curiosity and an event for the shopper, say retail analysts and consultants.
"Barneys' high-end edgy luxury is a niche that downtown San Francisco didn't yet have, and that's the part that it can fill," said Vikki Johnson of Johnson Hoke Ltd., the San Francisco real estate firm that sealed the deal with the landlord for the location - the old Joseph Magnin and FAO Schwarz spot at Stockton and O'Farrell streets in the landmark building designed by G. Albert Lansburgh, a protege of Bernard Maybeck.
"The buyers keep up with all the latest brands; the merchandise is always ahead of the curve," Johnson said. "They have a reputation for taking risks - have you ever been in their shoe department?"
Case in point: A $1,070 pair of seriously distressed cowboy boots that look like they were left in someone's attic for decades. "These are flying out the door in New York," said Carlos Castillo, manager of the women's shoe department in San Francisco.
Having the brand gleefully mentioned a thousand times on the hit HBO series "Sex and the City" didn't hurt Barneys' image, either.
"The brand got a lot of exposure through that show by introducing the name to a lot of people," said Elizabeth Shobert, project director at Envirosell, a New York retail consulting and research firm.
"There is a continuing curiosity of the brand," she said. "Their spectrum of merchandise is very broad; the Co-Op young designer section is growing and accessible to a wider audience. I can go to Barneys and find a $60 T-shirt or spend $1,500 on a handbag."
The stores are known for their quirky, whimsical interiors - in San Francisco, you'll see driftwood furniture, mixed-pattern couches, a clothing rack made of antique pennies - and every floor is different. "They take some of the elements that people love about boutiques and incorporate them," Shobert said.
Even though there is a fair amount of overlap of merchandise with the other high-end stores in each city, "Barneys has always had pieces made exclusively for them by designers that you won't find in other stores, and that lures in customers as well," Shobert said.
Women with big bucks, as well as those with more style than salary who will stretch their budgets to buy a special pair of shoes or a bag, can sustain a store like Barneys in San Francisco, said Pamela Mendelsohn, a retail consultant and broker with Johnson Hoke who was not involved in the Barneys deal.
"A lot of people who live in the Bay Area go on regular shopping trips to New York, Los Angeles and Europe because they can't find the merchandise they want here," she said. "I think Barneys will bring them back, and I also think it will attract a lot of tourist shoppers."
Those with money are spending it. "Luxury shopping has been doing extremely well the last four years," said Ken Brown of Research Connect, a market research firm in Boston. "And high-end retailers don't need as many customers as midrange retailers do to survive."
Fashion name-droppers will be in their element on the cushy third floor (marble floors, linen and silk wall treatments in the spacious fitting rooms) where the store's well-known customer service is supposed to kick in. This is where Lanvin, Rodarte, Nina Ricci and Balenciaga are sold. Bottega Veneta, Rick Owens and Vionnet, as well as the Barneys New York collection, are San Francisco exclusives.
Men get two floors - designer and Co-Op - with big names like Battistoni, Lanvin, Zegna, Isaia and made-to-measure suiting, as well as Brioni, Armani Black Label, Kid Robot and Helmut Lang.
The lower-level cosmetics area features familiar lines like Nars, Clarins and Shu Uemura alongside harder-to-find makeup and fragrance lines like Le Labo, by Terry and Frederic Malle parfums ($210 for a 100 ml bottle). To sample a Malle fragrance, stick your head into a clear booth that's pumped up with oxygen. The top half of a double door is opened, and you inhale.
Then there's the famed shoe department - big Barneys bait - that takes up the entire mezzanine level. With soft cream-colored carpeting and comfy couches, it overlooks the street and the first floor. In stock: the aforementioned 20,000 pairs of shoes, by Lanvin, Azzedine Alaia, Christian Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik, Chloe, Prada and others. (Saks carries 30,000 pairs of women's shoes, in comparison.)
The San Francisco store will have a small home and gift section, and both men's and women's Co-Ops, the lower-priced departments that showcase young and edgier designers like 3.1 Phillip Lim, San Francisco-raised Alexander Wan and Trovata.
A few hundred guests will get the first peek at the offerings at an invitation-only opening benefit bash tonight hosted by Danielle Steel along with her couture-clad clan, including Samantha, Victoria and Vanessa Traina, as well as Maxx and Zara Traina. Isabel and Ruben Toledo (the new Anne Klein designer and her illustrator husband), perfumer Malle and San Francisco-born designer Derek Lam are also expected to be on hand for the occasion.
Once inside, the decor is a big attraction. San Francisco's store is done in chestnut and blond woods, blond carpets, ivory and black marble floors, and bronze metal accents. Longtime Barneys collaborator sculptor John-Paul Philippe designed the abstract geometric metal staircase (no tacky escalators here) and the cosmetics display cases decorated with archival Japanese colored paper paints and inks of flowers and vines that have a '60s vibe.
But perhaps more important, the building has huge first-floor windows.
That makes Simon Doonan, the store's chatty creative director and window impresario, even more jumpy-joyful than usual. Doonan's theatrical window displays are an integral part of the store's lure. He has been creating the store's provocative, evocative and must-see windows for two decades and will oversee the San Francisco windows.
The opening display, a photo montage of the store's history, was designed to acquaint San Franciscans with the store. Future windows will have tie-ins with well-known local organizations, like Alice Waters' Edible Garden Project and others.
"Our goal is not only to build strong ties in the community but also to provide a place for dreamy distraction," Doonan wrote in an e-mail.
This fall he'll feature drawings by the artists of Oakland's Creative Growth, the nonprofit art group for the developmentally disabled. Paper, the jazzy art and fashion magazine out of New York, invited the Creative Growth artists to interpret looks from the fall 2007 collections. The drawings will be displayed alongside the original outfits.
"It's intended to be a surreal and crafty dialogue between these two opposite worlds and features everyone from Marc Jacobs to Lanvin," Doonan wrote.
For the fashion purist, however, the store is best known for editing the collections down to a fine art.
"Designers always give you a lot of choices, and we work very hard on how we bring a special selection to each store," said the store's fashion director, Julie Gilhart, in an e-mail message. "We treat the well-known designers with as much respect as we do the up and coming. We know the San Francisco customer cares a lot about quality and design, and we will do our best to satisfy their needs."
The store's private label collection, said Gilhart, "is perfect for San Francisco - sophisticatedly quiet clothes that have a gentle design and superb quality."
The bad news: There will not be an in-house restaurant like Fred's, the busy mover-and-shaker hangout in the New York store. Nor will there be a warehouse sale - another Barneys signature - at least not right away.
And darn it, there won't be a doorman, either.
E-mail Sylvia Rubin at [email protected].
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http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cg.../MNAQRVU0E.DTL
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