Authentic Mexican Fare Blossoms in Vancouver
Western Canada just might be the next Los Angeles when it comes to Latin flavors—and tongue-in-cheek museums.
By Allison Williams November 9, 2021
MARTÍN VARGAS has a vision for Vancouver that looks a lot like Los Angeles. The chef thinks that Western Canada resembles Southern California 20 years ago, that it sits on the precipice of becoming “this small Latin mecca for food.” And his new Granville Island restaurant and market, Alimentaria Mexicana, will help cement that reputation.
Raised in Tijuana, Vargas trained in Mexico City before coming to Canada; he then partnered with Vancouver restaurateur Ernesto Gomez, who had already started the city’s Chancho Tortilleria. When Vargas first envisioned Alimentaria two years ago, he wasn’t sure if diners, familiar only with Tex-Mex-style dishes—“westernized,” he calls them—would go for the distinct flavors that truly represent his home cuisine. But when the restaurant opened in the palatial center of walkable, touristy Granville Island, it quickly began serving as many as 600 diners a day.
“We’re as close to our roots as we can be,” says Vargas. Consider the varieties of salsa on the menu, including sikil paak made from pumpkin seeds; the Mayan-born blend has a delayed kick. In other words, this ain’t Chipotle.
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