I like downtown Indianapolis a lot; it's attractive, and pleasant for walking. Like most Hoosiers, a lot of the people still have a pretty much suburban mindset, and I think that inhibits the growth of residential density and foot traffic downtown. I think that few American cities can match Indianapolis' collection of monumental architecture on and near the War Memorial Plaza, right in the center of downtown.
To the north, the area around 82nd Street is a textbook bad example of nightmare sprawl, with traffic congestion, gated communities, strip centers full of chain stores, and the uppity Fashion Mall (although it does have a Cheesecake Factory, as ColDayMan would be quick to point out
).
Museums and cultural amenities are quite good and varied, and the state government complex is handsome and nicely laid out. The capitol building (State House) is gorgeous inside and out, and has been lovingly restored and cared for.
Bicycling is decent and getting better, both for recreation and commuting. The
greenway system is extensive and continues to grow, and the Monon Trail that runs north from 10th Street past the state fairgrounds and through Broad Ripple and Carmel is well designed and heavily used and connects with other trails.