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Old Posted Aug 25, 2024, 11:09 PM
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This weekend in Montreal

I haven't posted here in ages, but it feels like City Photos is having a bit of a revival. So here are some unedited phone snapshots from this past weekend in Montreal.

1pm Friday — it's been shit weather this week and finally it's nice again, so I decide to clock out early and spend the rest of the day wandering around. This is Bélanger at Saint-Hubert, a couple of blocks from my place.



Heading under one of the underpasses that connect my neighbourhood, La Petite-Patrie, to the Plateau Mont-Royal. They're separated by Canadian Pacific Railway tracks.



Brief detour in a back alleyway.



Now we've reached Mont-Royal Avenue, which is one of 11 streets in Montreal that are temporarily pedestrianized for the summer, in this case from the end of May to early September (although part of the street will remain pedestrianized until mid-October).







The part of Mont-Royal west of St-Laurent Boulevard is not pedestrianized.



Duluth is another street on the Plateau that is pedestrianized all summer, from May to October. There are a lot of pop-up junk/vintage sales every weekend.



At this point I took an electric Bixi (bike share) over Mount Royal and through Westmount. I didn't take any photos while cycling so here's a stand-in taken a few weeks ago.



I was heading over to Monkland Avenue which had a street fair this weekend, the first of its kind since 2018. This part of town is generally more car-oriented and resistant to any kind of pedestrianization project. This street fair only lasted four days but it's nice to see it taking place.





There was a stage with musical performances, mostly folk and bluegrass from what I could tell.



I stopped for a beer at one of the pubs along the street. The bartender/server was wearing a kilt.



At this point I hopped on another Bixi (not electric this time) and cycled through Westmount and the west end of downtown Montreal to reach the main shopping district on Ste-Catherine Street.



There was some kind of musical performance about to start in Phillips Square.



A little further east, on the Place des Festivals, there was some kind of festival called MAD happening. A bit of a fashion/street culture/hip hop thing.









This stretch of Ste-Catherine Street is pedestrianized all year round.



A little further east there's a new public square called the Esplanade Tranquille and for the past six days it has been playing host to a free outdoor stage for Mutek, an experimental electronic music festival. Mutek was founded here 25 years ago and it now has branches in Tokyo, Mexico City and Barcelona.



At this point I got on another Bixi (electric again) and cycled uphill to Mile End, where there are free concerts every weekend on a vacant lot in the old garment district. On Friday night it was Paige Barlow, a singer from Atlanta who now lives in Montreal and fronts a 1970s-ish psychedelic rock band.







To get home I walked through "la friche ferroviaire" which can be inelegantly translated as "the liminal space next to the train tracks." Sometimes French is more efficient than English.



There is meant to be an official level crossing here but the CPR is very uncooperative and doesn't make things easy for the municipal government. So for decades people have cut openings through the fences along the tracks.



Today, Sunday, I took it easy and spent time in a couple of local parks. I had a banh mi and a beer in Lafontaine Park.



Then I went to Mount Royal and read an Agatha Christie novel as the tam-tams (a weekly drum circle) were happening nearby.





A thunderstorm suddenly rolled in and I didn't quite make it home before the rain started bolting down, so I ducked underneath a viaduct where there is a small park. This was a vacant lot that was used for cultural activities in the 2000s and after pressure from the community, the local government turned it into an official green space.



The storm passed. Now I'm home, sitting on my back porch, grilling some corn on the BBQ.

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Old Posted Aug 26, 2024, 1:56 AM
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Cool little tour.
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Old Posted Aug 26, 2024, 4:48 AM
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Nice set! I was just in Montreal for a couple of days last week to make some walking videos. It was my first time there & I really enjoyed the city!
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Old Posted Aug 26, 2024, 9:33 PM
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Cool! Are they on YouTube?
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Old Posted Aug 27, 2024, 3:30 AM
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Your porch looks very inviting!
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Old Posted Sep 1, 2024, 5:58 PM
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Cool! Are they on YouTube?
Yep, although I still have a few yet to be uploaded. The channel is called The Ken Continuum.
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Old Posted Aug 27, 2024, 2:11 PM
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The city really is great at landscaping and placemaking. I remember a gritty, rust belt-type feeling (which Montreal actually wore quite well) in a lot of areas that really looks to have vanished.

That was a prominent aspect of the city in its '90s/cheap rent/Budapest era. It looked like Philadelphia or something. I haven't seen that quality in a photo of Montreal for some time. It seems to have moved beyond this.
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Old Posted Aug 27, 2024, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kool maudit View Post
The city really is great at landscaping and placemaking. I remember a gritty, rust belt-type feeling (which Montreal actually wore quite well) in a lot of areas that really looks to have vanished.

That was a prominent aspect of the city in its '90s/cheap rent/Budapest era. It looked like Philadelphia or something. I haven't seen that quality in a photo of Montreal for some time. It seems to have moved beyond this.
Montreal has changed a lot in the past 15 years. In terms of urban space and placemaking, a lot of the credit goes to Projet Montréal which has a real emphasis on grassroots urbanism, rather than lining the pockets of their political cronies. It's amazing what you can do when you finally have a party in power that isn't deeply corrupt.

But there's also the economic situation. Montreal is actually a prosperous city now. I think the biggest shock for me over the past few years was realizing that this is no longer a city people leave for better opportunities, it's a city that people randomly move to because they happened to find a good job here. If you go to Griffintown it has a very distinct "we just ended up here" vibe that you also feel in many parts of Toronto or New York. It used to be that it took a real commitment to stay in Montreal, especially if you were anglo.

On top of that economic change there was also the pandemic and the rise of lifestyle refugees from other parts of Canada. There is a not insignificant number of people who moved here from Toronto and Vancouver in the past three years, taking advantage of cheaper housing while maintaining their remote jobs for tech companies or whatever. I know quite a few people whose jobs are based in the US, in Europe or in the rest of Canada and live here solely because they're able to have a better quality of life.

Of course that has a knock-on effect and Montreal is no longer cheap. Housing is still more affordable than most other big cities but everything else has become pretty expensive. I make about seven times as much money today as I did when I first graduated from university in 2006 and was trying to make it as a freelance journalist with a part-time minimum-wage job, and yet the city felt way more affordable back then.
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Old Posted Sep 6, 2024, 2:56 PM
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Great set! Planned on making it to Mtl this summer but got too busy with other stuff - regretting this more than a bit right now. Will hopefully make it in the somewhat near future but Summer is always a fun vibe.

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The city really is great at landscaping and placemaking. I remember a gritty, rust belt-type feeling (which Montreal actually wore quite well) in a lot of areas that really looks to have vanished.
Your start in Montreal predates my first visits by a bit but I have some distinct memories of this feeling from my trips (and old photo tours) in the early 2000s. It's a much more polished place now but certainly just as (more?) vibey in a slightly different way. I'm jealous of the quality in both landscaping and placemaking even if I have some fond memories of my friend's apartment in Mile-End that was falling apart at the time. Complete with bathtub separated by a curtain in the middle of the living room for some reason.
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Old Posted Sep 7, 2024, 11:03 PM
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Great photo thread. We needed a dose of Montréal. Very few Canadian cities look as welcoming in the summer.

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Originally Posted by kool maudit View Post
The city really is great at landscaping and placemaking. I remember a gritty, rust belt-type feeling (which Montreal actually wore quite well) in a lot of areas that really looks to have vanished.

That was a prominent aspect of the city in its '90s/cheap rent/Budapest era. It looked like Philadelphia or something. I haven't seen that quality in a photo of Montreal for some time. It seems to have moved beyond this.
kool, as far as I'm concerned Montreal is doing the best job in Canada at creating pedestrian friendly environments. Putting residents first over cars, and residents and visitors alike benefit from these initiatives
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Old Posted Aug 27, 2024, 2:23 PM
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As usual, awesome stuff!
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Old Posted Aug 27, 2024, 2:30 PM
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Well, for heaven's sake don't keep people in suspense! What Agatha Christie novel did you read?
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Old Posted Aug 27, 2024, 10:21 PM
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Well, for heaven's sake don't keep people in suspense! What Agatha Christie novel did you read?
Destination Unknown – a very musty 1980s paperback edition of which I found for $1 at a flea market. I'm enjoying it although it was apparently a very minor work all things considered. It's actually the first Agatha Christie novel I've ever read, weirdly enough. My grandparents were big fans but somehow I never indulged in their collection.
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Old Posted Aug 30, 2024, 2:08 AM
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I thought they cracked down on people crossing those tracks, I guess not. I wonder if they'll ever do anything with the massive abandoned warehouse on van Horne (reminds me of the Kingsbridge armory in the bronx)
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Old Posted Aug 31, 2024, 7:49 PM
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There are periodic crackdowns but it's impossible to prevent people from crossing. There are always new holes in the fence. Also, the city wanted to make a level crossing right there, but the CPR opposed it and the federal agency in charge of railways ruled that the city would need to build an underpass if it wanted a crossing there. So basically, most people's attitudes in Mile End and Rosemont is "fuck the CPR."

The Van Horne warehouse is owned by a developer and there's a proposal to turn it into a hotel and offices. There has been a lot of community opposition to that and the developer is working on a new proposal. No details yet. There's a thread about it on Agora:

https://forum.agoramtl.com/t/1-van-horne-7-etages/3389
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Old Posted Aug 31, 2024, 9:10 PM
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CP has a very combative history with the City of Mississauga as well. It is kinda disappointing the feds caved in and did exactly what CP wanted with the recent lock out.

Is it first time eating banh mi? I ate it the first time in many years. I used to eat it every week as a kid until moved to the other side of the city. No banh mi place here, just Subway. Ugh.

The right wing city councillors in Toronto would get very angry to see streets pedestrianized like that. Make Montreal Great Again!
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Old Posted Sep 1, 2024, 10:22 PM
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Is it first time eating banh mi? I ate it the first time in many years. I used to eat it every week as a kid until moved to the other side of the city. No banh mi place here, just Subway. Ugh.
First time I had banh mi was as a kid growing up in Calgary. There are lots of places there that make it, especially around the downtown area, so it was a pretty handy lunch. Same thing in Montreal – when I was a student you could get a banh mi for $2 which was amazing when you're living on a tight budget.

I stopped eating them when I moved to Hong Kong because there's very little banh mi there (despite a long history of Vietnamese migrants passing through) and it's generally mediocre and overpriced. Funnily enough a Hong Kong pop star who grew up in Montreal had a post on social media today talking about how she has been trying to find good banh mi in Hong Kong for 20 years and only just now came across one that was as good as what she'd had in Montreal.

Today, where I live near St-Denis/Jean-Talon there are four banh mi places within a 5-minute walk of my house. Cheapest is $3.50, most expensive is $8 (both tax in) but the more expensive one is better.
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Old Posted Sep 2, 2024, 8:53 PM
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Nice, thanks for the pics - need to make it to Montreal some day... and thanks for the heads up on Duluth with the vintage pop-ups. My husband and I would probably spend the whole day there and buying an extra suitcase for our haul home.
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Old Posted Sep 3, 2024, 11:46 PM
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Nice, thanks for the pics - need to make it to Montreal some day... and thanks for the heads up on Duluth with the vintage pop-ups. My husband and I would probably spend the whole day there and buying an extra suitcase for our haul home.
There are vintage pop-ups all over the place in the summer, even in the parks! But lately Saint-Denis has become the go-to street for vintage, there's maybe a dozen spots that have opened since the pandemic. And if you do come, you can't forget Hadio on Mont-Royal. In the photo I took they were having a $1 sale on clothes and my wife basically bought a new wardrobe of super stylish stuff for less than the price of a sandwich.
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Old Posted Sep 3, 2024, 12:12 AM
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Fantastic. It's a nice treat to get a Kilgore thread. Keep posting. City Photos is definitely on a bit of an upswing as of late.

And it's pretty sad that Vancouver's cheapest banh mi place (that I've found) is the same as Montreal's most expensive.
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