Terre de France en Amerique du Nord

SignalHillHiker · #1 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 4:14 AM**

This weekend Ayreonaut and I dusted off our passports and visited the beautiful archipelago of St-Pierre et Miquelon, France.

This last remnant of France's once vast North American territories is approximately 3.5 hours drive southwest of St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador - plus a short ferry ride.

The archipelago includes three main islands: St-Pierre, Langlade, and Grand Miquelon, the latter two of which are linked by a famous (or, if you're a sailor, infamous) sandbar. Here you can see the islands, as well as their proximity to Newfoundland to their right:

Here is their location in relation to the rest of North America:

The islands have a combined population of 6,080 (2011), of which almost 80% are locals (either Saint-Pierrais or Miquelonnais) and the remainder are relatively recent immigrants born in France.

Less than 1% of the population is what locals call "people from outside", meaning non-French. Most of those, in turn, are Newfoundlanders who have married locals and emigrated to the French islands.

The vast majority of the inhabitants live in the surprisingly urban town of St-Pierre (seriously, I can't stress enough how impressive this place is with such a small population - it feels like a few blocks of a larger city, not a town) with only a small number residing elsewhere, primarily in the dense farming village of Miquelon at the island's northern tip.

Accents and cultures from the Basque country, Normandy, and Brittany are present, with the Basque identity being the dominant one shared by most inhabitants. However, especially in the village of Miquelon, Acadian refugees from mainland Canada have also made their mark on the local sense of identity.

The proximity to North America has also had an impact with locals regularly visiting St. John's, Halifax, and Montreal for healthcare, shopping, and university. As one woman put it: "When I go to France, I think... wow, I am really North American. But then I go to Quebec and it's like... no, no, no, wow, I am sssooo French!"

And the islands, of course, follow the rules of the rest of their republic - stores are only open from around 9:30-noon and again from 2-5 p.m. on Monday-Friday. There are quirks - for example, they LOVE hockey, especially Boston Bruins and Montreal Canadiens.

I've been many times, but it was Ayreonaut's first so we did the main island and town in style - covering every square inch, more or less. Join us on our tour!

Now, I took about 1,000 pictures on this trip so I'm editing over the next couple of days. I'll do it in four posts, all in this thread. First is getting there, then Day 1 in St-Pierre, Day 2 in St-Pierre, and finally the voyage home.

So, here is Part 1 - getting to St-Pierre et Miquelon.

• Video Link

We left St. John's at sunrise, so early in the morning.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

About 2 hours from St. John's we enter the Burin peninsula.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Marystown is the largest community and the regional center for the peninsula, but it is also a mostly modern community that doesn't have the old architecture and romance of its smaller neighbours.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The town, like most communities on this part of Newfoundland, was founded by the French who were driven out centuries ago. The harbour around which Marystown is built is actually still today called Baie de Mortier (Bay of Death) as a result of what happened to the original French settlers.

There is still the giant statue of the Virgin Mary on a hill towering above the town.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Next door, in some ways part of Marystown, is the town of Burin, for which the entire peninsula is named.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

From Burin we passed again through Marystown to catch the shortest highway further south to the ferry to St-Pierre-et-Miquelon.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

From there I took Ayreonaut to Garnish and Frenchman's Cove, two poor towns off the tourist trail that are representative of the lesser-seen Newfoundland.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Next up was Grand Bank, which is probably the most interesting and historic community on the peninsula.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The Yugoslavia pavilion from the Montreal Expo is found here as the provincial Seamen's Museum.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Grand Bank features many heritage homes including the widow's walk on the roof, where the women would stand and watch to ensure their husbands returned safely from fishing. Every house has its legends about those unfortunate few whose husbands did not.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

And then it was on to the immediately adjacent Fortune, which is the town from which the ferry departs for St-Pierre. It's a small town and is only used for this purpose because it is the closest significant settlement to the French islands.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The terminal is run down but also quite busy with Newfoundlanders and other tourists visiting the islands, and Saint-Pierrais and Miquelonnais coming to Newfoundland to shop.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

That's France on the horizon.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Next up is arrival and day 1 in St-Pierre.

Day 1

Inside the terminal on the Newfoundland side, the crowd was pretty evenly split between anglophone tourists and French citizens returning home. We met people from here, Quebec, New Brunswick, France, Minnesota, and a few other places.

The only ferry option for tourists is Le Cabestan, which takes approximately 55 minutes to cross from Fortune to St-Pierre - not including the time change. Despite being much farther west, St-Pierre is 30 minutes ahead of Newfoundland Time.

Once we arrived the first thing we wanted to do was check into our hotel and then hike to the top of the nearest hill to get an overview of the town. It's hard to convey in pictures (I'll share a couple of videos at the end) because I'm too shy most of the time to stick a camera in people's faces and wait until the coast is clear - but the place is so busy. There's so much life, people on the go all the time, and so on.

• Video Link

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

These cute porches are also present in St. John's but the effect of having them right up against the street in St-Pierre made me fall in love with them.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

There is not a single traffic light on the entire island - everything is controlled with roundabouts for major intersections and mirrors to view around corners within the town itself:

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

There's probably an even mix of European and North American vehicles. The government offers plates of both shapes depending on the model.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The island in the distance dotted with buildings is Isle-aux-Marins, a living museum. No one lives there permanently anymore so the entire place is a blend of museum and summer cottages.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Traditional Basque sports are still very popular, but hockey and soccer rule.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

For dinner we went for sushi.

And after that we went out drinking. The bars here close at 5 a.m.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Next up, day 2!

O.K., new plan. I'm struggling to cut out pictures as duplicates or uninteresting because I found the whole town fascinating - so I'll break it apart into a few more posts than planned.

So here Day 2 - Morning.

We got up and strolled around the city until the bakeries opened at noon. This post ends just before we reached the town's famous cemetery.

• Video Link

A lot of the modern architecture is quite lovely, even if technically hideous. Perhaps it's the small scale, but they seem to have a nice blend of old and new from a variety of eras.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Basically everyone who was strikingly overweight was a tourist. The locals can be quite unfit in their old age, but they still pass for North American 40-year-olds at 60-plus.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Isle-aux-Marins is almost like their Signal Hill - you can see it from just about everywhere.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

There was a lot of religious artifacts around the town, including giant memorials. And the churchbells on Sunday morning rang forever, with no song - just dozens of loud bells ringing all at once.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The locals are very, very friendly. They call out "Bonjour!" even from inside their homes as you pass by on the street.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

There are lots of English words around, quite a striking difference from Quebec - but it's natural given the Saint-Pierrais don't feel their language is threatened at home.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The flags of France and St-Pierre et Miquelon (behind) are the most common, but there are hundreds of Basque flags fluttering around the town as well.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

This lighthouse offers a spectacular view of the old core.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Although I do appreciate this building, it does make me sad to know their gorgeous, old Palais de Justice - which was probably the grandest building in the city, their equivalent of our Supreme Court, burned down.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

All of the buildings, even offices, have windows that can open completely without screens. That was really nice, especially passing larger apartment buildings.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Orange and purple are very popular colours here.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

We stopped for some coconut cake and capuccino muffins.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Some of the streets are quite steep. I love their concrete poles with the stone ladder inside for workers to climb.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

This is a game we don't have in Newfoundland. The two girls were rolling around, including rolling downhill, on the sidewalk and street.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

This is just one of many statues and memorials peppered throughout the town, all with generally expansive grounds (relatively speaking) surrounding, often obviously divided up for sports I don't know.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

And, from here, we turned down toward the cemetery at the far west end of the town.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Next up - afternoon of day 2.

O.K., next round. This gets us to supper time.

So, we visited the cemetery and then hiked up the main highway out of town. We found our way back down through the peat bogs and bone-dry moorlands and toured the hilariously North American-yet-still-somehow-different suburbs at the west end of the town (for one thing, every other house had a pet horse or two in the back yard).

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

• Video Link

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Memorial University of Newfoundland bases part of its French language program here.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The island's main museum is quite Japanese-looking.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

I assume it's the jail.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The highway has cute drainage.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The residents have summer cottages that are about a 20-minute walk from their houses.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The airport is served by Air St-Pierre which has regular flights to St. John's, Moncton, Halifax, and Montreal, I believe.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Le Cabestan returning from Newfoundland (on the horizon).

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The 'burbs.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The giant supermarket in the west end of town has a wide selection of local French products such as fois gras, etc. They're having trouble selling it legally in Newfoundland because the standards for preservatives and all of that are different.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

More memorials.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Next up... rest of that day and a beautiful night,

And the remaining little bit of day 2.

Another angle of the museum:

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

This is definitely a town where the old joke of a runaway baby carriage could be real.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Everyone loves a forge, apparently.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

For supper we had escargot, French onion soup, and the best creme brulee ever.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

That night we spent at a different bar, something quieter. I noticed Saint-Pierrais appear to kiss only twice and both times on the same cheek.

One more day left. This time we explored the east end of town, which it turns out is actually almost as "urban" as the core, far more than the west end in any event. A lot of my favourite views and buildings were in that end.

And now, the best for last - the older east end of St-Pierre and a final goodbye to the core.

• Video Link

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

In addition to RONA, they also have Home Hardware. I suppose it was easier to bring over North American brands rather than attract European equivalents.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

There are a couple of roundabouts in the town larger than this one, but most are around this size.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Newfoundland in the distance.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

I love the guardrails - they're pretty compared to the ones we use.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

I think this is an assisted living complex as there were very old women peeking out the windows.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

I love how the sports facilities are nestled into the neighbourhoods.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The message at the lower right is hilarious, assuming I understand it ("Don't be idiots and give yourselves and other youth a bad name", basically).

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

The Town Hall is quite nice.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

And the tourism promotion outside indicates they get as much snow in winter as we do.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

This little gallery was adorable.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

St-Pierre had about the town's entire population out marching during the Je Suis Charlie protests, enough that Newfoundland media went there to cover it.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

All of the clothing on display is so small. I couldn't get a leg in one of those dresses.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Then it was time to go to the bakery for some eclairs and other treats.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

This cracked me up. It reminded me of that joke, "You know you're Slavic when you chop up some onions and then ponder what to cook for dinner." I imagine, since the porch is a given, they've kept it and will just design the new house with it still there.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Love the front step.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

For our last meal, we decided to go all out and dine at one of the finer restaurants in town.

I had raspberry cod back with fois gras.

Ayreonaut had the duck.

And then it was time to leave...

And we stopped once across to admire St-Pierre one last time.

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

A la prochaine!

Terre Neuve et St-Pierre et Miquelon by R C, on Flickr

montréaliste · #2 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 11:38 AM**

Very well done. Stunning pics and smart commentary. Thank you shh!

big T · #3 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 1:52 PM**

Fantastic tour. I've been curious about SPM for a while, and it's great to see it in detail. I enjoyed the extensive commentary, it's the next best thing to visiting in person (which, unfortunately, is a bit hard to justify given the prices from Montreal)

begratto · #4 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 2:34 PM**

Quote:

Originally Posted by big T

Fantastic tour. I've been curious about SPM for a while, and it's great to see it in detail. I enjoyed the extensive commentary, it's the next best thing to visiting in person (which, unfortunately, is a bit hard to justify given the prices from Montreal)

I looked up the prices for a Montreal - Saint-Pierre flights, just by curiosity... 1194$ Yikes!!!

I have been to Chile for muss less than that!

Thanks for this fantastic tour Signalhillhiker.

lio45 · #5 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 2:55 PM**

Nice commentary

One of the last pics in your first post... "Autistic person in area -- Do not enter", WTF? They're not that dangerous...

mousquet · #6 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 5:41 PM**

Great idea of a thread, you just made me read a couple of related articles.

The town is looking cozy through your camera and I love the colored wooden homes found in your hometown as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SignalHillHiker

The proximity to North America has also had an impact with locals regularly visiting St. John's, Halifax, and Montreal for healthcare, shopping, and university.

While he was touring some overseas communities, the prez visited them last Christmas, supposedly for the groundbreaking ceremony of a hospital, so they should at least no longer have to go up to Canada for regular healthcare.

However, the local economy's been too slow, just as the overall French economy. The current president, his most gracious majesty Mr François Hollande is a gentleman from the socialist party (like the most significant politicians from these islands for now, anyway). So you know, he would've showed up over there with his public social stuff for Christmas, but no business strategy to actually develop Saint-Pierre. A public hospital is cool, was surely necessary, but won't be enough.

Some businesses would be interested in developing Saint-Pierre's port, cause tourism (maybe even freight) over the area and that of the Arctic region further north would be somewhat booming. Of course, we're only talking about a microcommunity here, but the location of these islands would nonetheless be pretty interesting, right on a spot where some maritime routes getting busier and busier cross. Have you seen or heard about anything related to that project of expanding the local port? That's apparently an initiative from the private sector that could create a couple of hundred jobs locally. So hopefully the mean politicians don't mess it up.

SignalHillHiker · #7 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 5:52 PM**

Quote:

Originally Posted by mousquet

While he was touring some overseas communities, the prez visited them last Christmas, supposedly for the groundbreaking ceremony of a hospital, so they should at least no longer have to go up to Canada for regular healthcare.

However, the local economy's been too slow, just as the overall French economy. The current president, his most gracious majesty Mr François Hollande is a gentleman from the socialist party (like the most significant politicians from these islands for now, anyway). So you know, he would've showed up over there with his public social stuff for Christmas, but no business strategy to actually develop Saint-Pierre. A public hospital is cool, was surely necessary, but won't be enough.

Some businesses would be interested in developing Saint-Pierre's port, cause tourism (maybe even freight) over the area and that of the Arctic region further north would be somewhat booming. Of course, we're only talking about a microcommunity here, but the location of these islands would nonetheless be pretty interesting, right on a spot where some maritime routes getting busier and busier cross. Have you seen or heard about anything related to that project of expanding the local port? That's apparently an initiative from the private sector that could create a couple of hundred jobs locally. So hopefully the mean politicians don't mess it up.

They do have a beautiful health center. I'm not sure why they come here for healthcare but I assume it's only for specialized care. They were in the news here recently as they were shopping around for a new provider because we were charging them too much and not having bilingual staff available at all times.

The economy doesn't seem to be that bad. No one seems especially poor, or especially rich. And there is a strong underground economy still of moving cheap cigarettes and booze to Newfoundland and beyond. Unfortunately, there is also a strong economy of smuggling drugs in from Newfoundland.

I'm sure it has its struggles - what place so isolated could not - but the difference in feeling and atmosphere from comparable towns in Newfoundland is like night and day.

Regarding the port - there is a lot of work going on there. I can't tell what the purpose is because the Customs building (Duane or something) is right on the wharf and is gutted inside, so the exterior work could just be related to fixing that building. But it is a busy construction zone, yes.

New Brisavoine · #8 Posted **Jul 26, 2015, 11:11 AM**

Quote:

Originally Posted by mousquet

However, the local economy's been too slow, just as the overall French economy.

The economy in SPM is "slow" because of the aggressive economic war waged by Canada against SPM since the 1980s. In particular, the Canadian authorities have fought tooth and nail to deprive SPM of its rightful EEZ, so that the fisheries of SPM have now all but collapsed. And now Canada is trying to prevent SPM from claiming its rightful share of the continental shelf extension at the UN (apparently Newfoundland does not want SPM to exploit any oil there).

So it's nice and all to say how cute and nice SPM is, but let's not forget that Canada is doing its best to wreck the local economy there. As if a few more tons of cod, or one or two more offshore oil rigs would change anything to the standards of living of people in Newfoundland, whereas they would change a lot to the standards of living of people in SPM!

Unfortunately, the French government has never really been too keen to support SPM in its fight against Canada. For the French foreign office, the fate of 6,000 souls overseas has always been considered less important than having a good relationship with a 30 million+ country. So in the 1980s, the French government did a lousy job at defending the rights of SPM to its EEZ, which led to a disaster in courts (SPM lost overnight 90% of its fishing territory).

Recently Hollande has said France would this time fight more forcefully against Ottawa so that SPM can get its rightful share of the continental shelf extension, but I doubt they will pursue the matter very far. Already Ottawa let it be known that SPM has absolutely no right to a continental shelf extension, and I doubt the Paris authorities are ready to engage in a decade of fighting and legal proceedings with Ottawa just for the sake of SPM. We'll see. The local authorities in SPM are bombarding the government in Paris and the French National Assembly with pleas and demands for action almost every month, and I know a few deputies in the National Assembly are now very sensitive to this issue, but I'm afraid in the end, especially if Sarkozy returns to power in 2017, SPM will once again be abandoned in order not to anger Ottawa.

As a result of this shameful economic war (frankly, I have never understood how such a large country as Canada can be so petty as to deprive 6,000 people of resources that are minuscule for the entire Canada considered as a whole), the local economy has collapsed since the 1980s and is supported now mainly by social transfers from Metropolitan France. Many people have also left the islands and the population is declining. However, if you tell people from SPM that they are parasites leaving off social transfers (as Mousquet almost did), they become very very angry, because they tell you it's the fault of Paris who didn't defend their economic interests against Canada.

So... sorry to burst the bubble a bit, but that's the back of the postcard. Very nice pictures nonetheless. They should repave the streets though (that might not shock a North American, but that certainly shocks a Metropolitan Frenchman). I guess they don't have enough money for it due to the situation I've explained.

SignalHillHiker · #9 Posted **Jul 26, 2015, 12:23 PM**

Quote:

Originally Posted by New Brisavoine

The economy in SPM is "slow" because of the aggressive economic war waged by Canada against SPM since the 1980s. In particular, the Canadian authorities have fought tooth and nail to deprive SPM of its rightful EEZ, so that the fisheries of SPM have now all but collapsed. And now Canada is trying to prevent SPM from claiming its rightful share of the continental shelf extension at the UN (apparently Newfoundland does not want SPM to exploit any oil there).

So it's nice and all to say how cute and nice SPM is, but let's not forget that Canada is doing its best to wreck the local economy there. As if a few more tons of cod, or one or two more offshore oil rigs would change anything to the standards of living of people in Newfoundland, whereas they would change a lot to the standards of living of people in SPM!

Unfortunately, the French government has never really been too keen to support SPM in its fight against Canada. For the French foreign office, the fate of 6,000 souls overseas has always been considered less important than having a good relationship with a 30 million+ country. So in the 1980s, the French government did a lousy job at defending the rights of SPM to its EEZ, which led to a disaster in courts (SPM lost overnight 90% of its fishing territory).

Recently Hollande has said France would this time fight more forcefully against Ottawa so that SPM can get its rightful share of the continental shelf extension, but I doubt they will pursue the matter very far. Already Ottawa let it be known that SPM has absolutely no right to a continental shelf extension, and I doubt the Paris authorities are ready to engage in a decade of fighting and legal proceedings with Ottawa just for the sake of SPM. We'll see. The local authorities in SPM are bombarding the government in Paris and the French National Assembly with pleas and demands for action almost every month, and I know a few deputies in the National Assembly are now very sensitive to this issue, but I'm afraid in the end, especially if Sarkozy returns to power in 2017, SPM will once again be abandoned in order not to anger Ottawa.

As a result of this shameful economic war (frankly, I have never understood how such a large country as Canada can be so petty as to deprive 6,000 people of resources that are minuscule for the entire Canada considered as a whole), the local economy has collapsed since the 1980s and is supported now mainly by social transfers from Metropolitan France. Many people have also left the islands and the population is declining. However, if you tell people from SPM that they are parasites leaving off social transfers (as Mousquet almost did), they become very very angry, because they tell you it's the fault of Paris who didn't defend their economic interests against Canada.

So... sorry to burst the bubble a bit, but that's the back of the postcard. Very nice pictures nonetheless. They should repave the streets though (that might not shock a North American, but that certainly shocks a Metropolitan Frenchman). I guess they don't have enough money for it due to the situation I've explained.

I don't know the situation all that well - but enough to agree. One only need look at the bizarre shape and small size of France's EEZ:

It's like an American congressional district. Shamefully whittled away. And the worst part is that if you look at the above map and think... hmm, that's ridiculous... and you try to draw a modest new border that you think would be a little more fair to St-Pierre, I guarantee you it's WAY less than what they were actually asking for. I can't find a map of that, but it's only an extra little triangle area.

Especially given the size of the area where France traditionally has been the dominant beneficiary:

And that's just the official French Shore established by various treaties and the like. Their actual presence in waters along the coast was even greater.

New Brisavoine · #10 Posted **Jul 26, 2015, 1:12 PM**

Quote:

Originally Posted by SignalHillHiker

I can't find a map of that, but it's only an extra little triangle area.

Here. The EEZ (weakly) claimed by France for SPM before 1992 was contained within the orange dotted lines (there were even some fights between SPM fishing boats and Canadians coast guards). In light blue, the EEZ assigned to SPM by the international ruling in 1992 that France so disastrously handled (Ottawa sent some top lawyers, had a huge dossier compiled, etc, while the French authorities treated this carelessly). In dark blue, current oil exploration areas. Finally in plain orange the extension of the continental shelf that France is now claiming for SPM, but which Ottawa flatly rejects.

A detailed report presented at the French National Assembly by the deputy from SPM: http://www.assemblee-nationale.fr/13/rap-info/i1312.asp

Inside the report, they have copied the letter in which the Canadian federal government "respectfully" rejects France's claims to a continental shelf extension:

(at least they sent the letter in French, which is more than what the US State Department would have done)

As de Gaulle used to say, in international politics there are no friends, there are only selfish interests.

Here an audio interview of SPM's deputy in the French National Assembly, Annick Girardin, who answers questions about the extension of the continental shelf (the journalist's 1st question: do we have any chance against Canada? that sets the tone...): http://annickgirardin.unblog.fr/2013...-en-questions/

mousquet · #11 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 6:01 PM**

So wut? Nothing about my port, eh?
Bah, I guess you're right, enjoy the place. The annoying economic concerns are no one's business but ours anyway.

Edit: oops sorry, I hadn't seen your post above.

Danny · #12 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 6:05 PM**

Fascinating tour, Signal!

It´s surprising to so many see french license plates in North America, like if you were in France.

Love the cute colorful houses and, of course, the beautiful landscapes.

Thanks for bringing us so many very good pictures and for discovering us that unknown for the majority wonderful land.

Congrats and greetings from Madrid, Spain.

mousquet · #13 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 6:21 PM**

^ The Basque apparently rocking da house, Danny. It's a pretty place, huh? Overall, it just looks like the neighboring Canadian province.

lio45 · #14 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 7:07 PM**

P.S. Danny, that place IS France. ("like you were in France"... he was.)

Danny · #15 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 7:28 PM**

Quote:

Originally Posted by lio45

P.S. Danny, that place IS France. ("like you were in France"... he was.)

You´re completely right. I hadn´t already read the wikipedia.

SignalHillHiker · #16 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 7:12 PM**

Quote:

Originally Posted by mousquet

^ The Basque apparently rocking da house, Danny. It's a pretty place, huh? Overall, it just looks like the neighboring Canadian province.

It seems to be a common look (colourful wood) across the North Atlantic with examples in Greenland, Azores, etc. - and, of course, Scandinavia, Ireland, etc.

St-Pierre just accomplishes so much with its small population. It's amazing to me. Marystown from the first post is actually bigger, and has the added benefit of being a regional center not off the beaten path, but still feels like a one-road village in comparison. We have towns 10,000-25,000 that don't have as much and feel much more rural.

lio45 · #17 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 7:05 PM**

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danny

Fascinating tour, Signal!

It´s surprising to so many see french license plates in North America, like if you were in France.

I love the totally unique mix of vehicles. A Renault Kangoo or Clio then a Pontiac Sunfire or Dodge Avenger.

I don't think any other place on this planet has such a hybrid mix.

begratto · #18 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 7:40 PM**

Quote:

Originally Posted by lio45

I love the totally unique mix of vehicles. A Renault Kangoo or Clio then a Pontiac Sunfire or Dodge Avenger.

I don't think any other place on this planet has such a hybrid mix.

Chile is a bit like this too. There's a mix of European, North American and Japanese cars. Check this Santiago Google street view for an example.

Minato Ku · #19 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 8:06 PM**

Most of South America seems to be like that, a mix of American, European and Japanese cars.

lio45 · #20 Posted **Jun 22, 2015, 8:28 PM**

I personally found Mexico to be a bit like that, yes, but they didn't have the full ranges of Peugeot and Citroën that are visible in those pics -- hence my guess that those islands are probably the only place in existence with that mix.