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SpongeG
Aug 25, 2007, 9:43 PM
found this article in the news...

Columbus, Indiana: Modernism on the prairie

http://media.startribune.com/smedia/2007/08/23/15/759-4183765.doublewide.prod_affiliate.2.jpg

Columbus, a small city in Indiana, ranks as one of the nation's premier architectural centers, boasting works by I.M. Pei, Eero Saarinen and other world-renowned architects.

By Greg Breining, Special to the Star Tribune

As you drive Interstate 65 through cornfields 40 miles south of Indianapolis, the first sign you are coming to something special is the bright red twin arch over the freeway, known as Gateway Bridge.
And if you take the exit and follow Hwy. 46 east a few miles, you come to another sign: The bright red suspension bridge over the East Fork of the White River that frames a view of the Bartholomew County Courthouse and the tower of First Christian Church.

You are entering Columbus, Indiana. It's not what you'd expect of a Midwestern town of 39,000, built on a mix of agriculture and manufacturing. It is, in fact, one of the architectural gems of the nation. Yes, the nation.

Throughout the city are commercial buildings and churches by I.M. Pei, Eliel and Eero Saarinen, Cesar Pelli and other world-renowned architects. You'll find parks and gardens by landscape architect Dan Kiley, and public sculpture by Henry Moore. Altogether, internationally known architects designed more than 60 buildings.

Six of those 60 buildings have been designated national historic landmarks (even though only one meets the usual requirement of being at least 50 years old).

If you like civic architecture -- especially bold, clean modernism -- Columbus is worth a look. Pick up an architectural tour map and wander around town on your own. Or arrange, as I did, to take the two-hour tour, mostly by bus. The story of how Columbus became, in the words of Lady Bird Johnson, "the Athens of the prairie" is a testament to one man's power to shape a community. And the results are impressive to see.

The Saarinens design first

Founded in the early 1800s as the Bartholomew County seat on the confluence of several creeks, Columbus was pretty from its early days, boasting a fine courthouse built in 1874 and an 1895 Romanesque brick and stone city hall. But the architectural surge, with its modernist flavor, began in the 1930s, when the well-to-do congregation of First Christian Church set out to find an architect for a new sanctuary. After the Boston designer of a traditional Gothic church quit the project for medical reasons, the congregation recruited renowned Finnish architect Eliel Saarinen. When Saarinen declined the proposal, J. Irwin Miller, then the general manager of Cummins Engine, the major business in town, persuaded the architect to accept. According to family legend, Nettie Irwin Sweeney Miller, a member of the search committee and mother of Irwin, concluded, "Mr. Saarinen is probably going to build a building I won't like much personally, but it will be a great building."

Indeed it was. What Saarinen designed and the congregation completed in 1942 was perhaps the first modernist church in the United States, a masterpiece of clean lines and rectangular form, with a 166-foot-tall free-standing bell tower, and a large stone cross in the sanctuary's limestone facade. Saarinen defended his radical change in church design this way: "Our forefathers and we ourselves have been using the dead styles of alien cultures. We have combined them in thousands of different ways until the last drop of expressiveness has been squeezed out."

The next step in Columbus' architectural evolution came in 1954, with the construction of the Irwin Union Bank and Trust. Designed by Eero Saarinen, son of Eliel, the open glass pavilion broke all the rules for bank buildings -- few walls, few doors, few offices. As our volunteer tour guide Bob Bolner remarked as our air-conditioned bus glided through the downtown, "For the time it was not evolutionary; it was revolutionary."

Both First Christian and Irwin Union are national historic landmarks, and both were built with the involvement of the Irwin family -- old money in Columbus -- and specifically, of J. Irwin Miller. Miller, who returned from World War II to run Cummins Engine, even recruited Eero Saarinen to design his own home in 1957. Built in the International Style, it too became a national historic landmark.

School gets high marks

Miller, a fan of modernist architecture, sought to promote good architecture to arrest the deterioration of the core city as people moved to the outskirts. He also wanted to make the Columbus school system as attractive as possible to draw the kind of employees and residents he felt Columbus needed. So in 1954 he set up the Cummins Foundation to pay the fees of world-famous architects to design the city's schools. In 1957 the first project came of the Cummins-Columbus partnership: Chicago architect and Saarinen associate Harry Mohr Weese designed the Lillian Schmitt Elementary School with an open courtyard and ranch-style rooflines like those of the houses that surrounded it. (Eventually, Weese would design more buildings in Columbus than any other prominent architect.) Over the years, the foundation has paid out $15 million in architectural fees, not just for schools, but also for fire stations, public housing, hospitals and a jail--more than 40 projects in all.

The best place to start the tour of the buildings that Miller wrought is downtown, outside the Columbus Area Visitors Center. A few steps away you'll find the First Christian Church, a 20-foot-high bronze arch by English sculptor Henry Moore, and the public library, designed by I.M. Pei.

A couple blocks away is the Commons Center, designed by Cesar Pelli, and built in 1973 as one of the first enclosed urban malls. Inside is Chaos I, a kinetic sculpture by Jean Tinguely. Also housed in the Commons is the Columbus Gallery of the Indianapolis Museum of Art.

Keep on walking. Soon you'll come to the Irwin Union Bank, the Cummins Corporate Office Building (a precast concrete and glass building designed by Kevin Roche and built in 1983, with the Rudolph de Harak sculpture "Exploded Engine" in the lobby); the Columbus Post Office (the first post office designed by privately funded architects when it was built in 1970), and Mill Race Park (with an old-time covered bridge moved to the location, trails, amphitheater, ponds and public sculpture).

Design of churches soars

True to the origin of modern architecture in Columbus, some of the most memorable buildings in the city are its churches.

Perhaps the most distinctive of all is Eero Saarinen's North Christian Church (of which Miller was a member). Completed in 1964 (after Saarinen's death following brain surgery), the church resembles an oil can reaching 192 feet tall. Entrances are set below ground level as if to encourage parishioners to bow before entering. The expansive sanctuary is shaped on a hexagonal plan, like the Star of David, to symbolize Christianity's roots in Judaism. Landscape architect Dan Kiley designed the church grounds.

First Baptist Church, built on a high hill in the northeastern part of town in 1965, is considered perhaps the best of Harry Weese's many Columbus projects. A steep vaulted roof, twice the height of the walls, dominates the design. Kids know it, as our tour guide noted, as the church that looks like Darth Vader's helmet.

St. Peter's Lutheran was designed by Gunnar Birkerts, another Eero Saarinen associate (and designer of the old Federal Reserve Bank in Minneapolis). Built in 1988, St. Peter's is easily spotted by its stiletto spire, 186 feet tall and clad in copper.

St. Bartholomew Catholic Church, built in 2002, was designed by RATIO Architects as a striking combination of a square Kasota stone narthex wrapped in a roof the shape of a nautilus shell.

The emphasis that Columbus -- largely through Miller's efforts -- has put on inspiring architecture is not to say the city has nothing but exemplary buildings. Strip malls, shabby housing and old commercial buildings line many of the town's streets.

Furthermore, the influence of the Cummins Foundation on the city's architecture has waned in recent years as earnings at Cummins dropped. Since 1989 the fund has paid architectural fees for only one building, Central Middle School, built in 2001.

But the city's reputation for fine architecture is so well established that other companies have ponied up for top-notch design, just to keep up, as Bolner said, with the "spirit of the community."

The city remains an impressive example of the legacy one person can leave. "Columbus, Ind., and J. Irwin Miller are almost holy words in architectural circles," wrote architecture critic Paul Goldberger in the New York Times in 1976. '"There is no other place in which a single philanthropist has placed so much faith in architecture as a means to civic improvement."

Freelance writer Greg Breining lives in St. Paul.

http://media.startribune.com/smedia/2007/08/23/15/162-4202235.embedded.prod_affiliate.2.jpg
City Hall. Columbus, Indiana. Provided by the Columbus Area Visitors Center

http://www.startribune.com/1513/story/1379181.html

Loopy
Aug 25, 2007, 10:19 PM
Thanks. I am going there over Labor Day weekend to see the sights. Does anybody have any opinions on their favorite buildings in Columbus?

Weese's First Baptist Church is high on my list.

vodnik
Aug 30, 2007, 7:16 PM
I went there last year. It was okay. There is very little to do there. But...if you're really into architecture, you can walk around and study the buildings, churches, etc. And while the architecture is good, in fact it's great for a town of this size, it's nothing that I couldn't find in St. Louis or any other large city.

Loopy
Sep 6, 2007, 12:59 AM
Here are some of my photos from Columbus. I will add more as I find time:

Irwin Garden

This one of the many non-modern delights in Columbus. A truly mature, century-old, formal garden is a rare find in the US.

Columbus has one.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/4307/dsc00233ap0.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/610/picture010dg1.jpg

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/6272/picture016hm0.jpg

http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/2479/picture017dx9.jpg

First Baptist Church - Harry Weese

This is one of my favorite modern churches. It contains a chapel and a larger sanctuary. One of Weese's best projects, for sure.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/906/picture056pc6.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/2589/picture057oj3.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/968/dsc00269ta0.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/2738/dsc00272kh6.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5237/dsc00273pl1.jpg


Bartholomew County Library - I.M. Pei

Not the greatest I.M. Pei, but possibly the greatest county library!

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/551/picture041nq1.jpg

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/6609/picture004yh5.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9310/picture008zm9.jpg

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http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8518/picture053ss6.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4821/picture050qv9.jpg


Cummins HQ - Kevin Roche

My wife and I spent a lazy afternoon picnicing on these grounds with our dog. A very strange, but fun summer afternoon!

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/3263/dsc00281yv1.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/4664/dsc00275vy9.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7110/dsc00282mb2.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/6863/dsc00290la8.jpg

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War Memorial

Columbus has many installed monuments to its citizens and their contributions to society. This is the most recent.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1622/dsc00311nz4.jpg

First Christian Church - Eliel Saarinen

It would be easy to take this building for granted as there are many minimal modern churches, but, this was the first in the US.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5355/picture005ak1.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7821/picture042lg9.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/246/picture043jn2.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8906/picture045vg7.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/1232/picture047hq3.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8721/picture046dg1.jpg

yerfdog
Sep 14, 2007, 3:06 AM
wow, thanks for posting that. I'm familiar with the church, but did not realize there was so much other brilliant modern architecture in that same small city