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View Full Version : A stylish auto hub (Short History of an Independent Detroit Enclave)


LMich
Apr 17, 2007, 1:23 AM
I've posted this in the Midwest forum, but I thought it deserving of its own post. I think it shows how incredibly fickle our society can be that it can build and then destroy, in less than an entire century:

http://cmsimg.detnews.com/apps/pbcsi.dll/bilde?Site=C3&Date=20070416&Category=METRO&ArtNo=704160318&Ref=V6&Profile=1003&MaxW=1500&Q=100&title=1
David Coates / The Detroit News
"I'm looking to see big things happen here in Highland Park," says Carl Pettway, 40, owner of Fade Away barber shop in Highland Park.

http://cmsimg.detnews.com/apps/pbcsi.dll/bilde?Site=C3&Date=20070416&Category=METRO&ArtNo=704160318&Ref=H3&Profile=1003&MaxW=1500&Q=100&title=1
Detroit News archives photos
The Ford Highland Park Plant on Woodward produced tractors.

http://cmsimg.detnews.com/apps/pbcsi.dll/bilde?Site=C3&Date=20070416&Category=METRO&ArtNo=704160318&Ref=V2Q=100&MaxW=500
"With the variety of stores in place, you didn't have to travel outside Highland Park to do any shopping," says Jerome Drain, who grew up in Highland Park and returned to live there in 1989.

Woodward: A journey through 200 years

A stylish auto hub

Ford, Chrysler created bustling, urban suburb -- and brought it down

Greg Tasker | The Detroit News

HIGHLAND PARK -- In this tiny community straddling Woodward Avenue, the managers and workers of the burgeoning auto industry found an urban oasis -- small neighborhoods of tidy bungalows and tree-shaded lanes. Even the street names -- California, Pasadena, Buena Vista -- seemed to reflect their dreams of upward mobility.

As the automotive hub of the globe in the early 20th century, cranking out millions of Model T's, Highland Park could afford to nurture those dreams.

With its move up Woodward from Detroit, the Ford Motor Co. had transformed the sleepy, pastoral farm village into a bustling community. Ford opened its innovative manufacturing complex on Woodward and lured thousands a few years later with the promise of $5 a day in wages.

Bounded mostly by Detroit and a bit of Hamtramck, Highland Park also would become the seat of the Chrysler Corp.

But Highland Park was more than just a company town. It was a model American suburb, home of leafy streets with distinctive bungalows, thriving main streets and community-minded corporations.

The residential streets that fanned across Woodward and other main roads were never more than three blocks long. Never mind that the city was the home of Ford -- the company that put the world on wheels -- the city was designed as a streetcar community, with public transportation never being more than a block and a half away. Residents could hop on a streetcar to downtown and other parts of Detroit, but they could shop, work or play in their own community.

"Back then you had people living and working in Highland Park. You had people living above the main street businesses," said Harriet Saperstein, chairwoman of the Woodward Avenue Action Association and former president of HP Devco, a nonprofit economic development agency. "You talk about the new urbanism. Highland Park had it a long time ago. It truly was a city in itself, with a separate identity from Detroit."

Shops, residents pack Woodward

In its heyday, Highland Park boasted a population of more than 50,000, which swelled every day as thousands of autoworkers streamed to their jobs at the auto plants. Much of the construction -- commercial and residential -- occurred over an 11-year boom from 1914 to 1925.

This legacy includes the Albert Kahn-designed Ford factory and a significant collection of Dutch colonials, Tudor revivals and Arts and Crafts bungalows. Two neighborhoods, Medbury's-Grove Lawn and Highland Heights-Stevens -- with some 700 homes -- are on the National Register of Historic Places.

Woodward and the city's main streets were packed with mom-and-pop shops, banks, restaurants, hotels, theaters, churches and apartment buildings. Its schools boasted high academic standards and a wealth of extracurricular activities.

In 1938, Sears Roebuck and Co. opened in an expansive Art Moderne building on Woodward, across from the Ford plant, which, by then, no longer made cars. Ford continued to assemble tractors there.

"With the variety of stores in place, you didn't have to travel outside Highland Park to do any shopping," said Jerome Drain, who grew up in Highland Park and returned to live there in 1989. "You had Sears, you had major stores, you had restaurants, theaters -- anything you wanted was there. You had all the amenities of a thriving community."

For many, Sears was the Target of its day, a working man's alternative to the downtown J.L. Hudson flagship store. With its central location, Highland Park became the home base of other well-known companies, including Sanders and Highland Appliance.

"Lots of folks called Highland Park the hubcap of the wheel of Detroit," said Katherine Clarkson, a former Highland Park resident and former executive director of Preservation Wayne. "It was the shiny thing in the middle. The workers' wives would come to Sears and the Ford company stores to shop. It was really a busy, vibrant city. It was an affluent community, even though the individual folks were not."

Automotive executives, managers and workers moved into neighborhoods with street names that symbolized Highland Park's cosmopolitan sensibility: California, Colorado, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Pasadena, Rhode Island.

Automakers contributed to city's fall

The automakers put Highland Park on the map, but they also contributed to its decline.

The ever-growing Ford Motor Co. moved its car operations to its sprawling Rouge complex in Dearborn in the late 1920s. Decades later, Chrysler left.

In between, this once highly integrated community lost thousands of residents. Businesses left or relocated, further eroding its tax base. After more than a half century, Sears closed shop in 1992. The city gained a reputation for blight, crime and poverty.

The human and tax drain contributed to the city's well-publicized money woes, and the state took over its finances in 2002. The state still manages the city's fiscal affairs.Even so, many in this community of 16,000 are optimistic about Highland Park's future.

While vacant lots and abandoned buildings remain, new shopping centers have been built along Woodward. Coca-Cola Co. opened a distribution center in 2006, and Visteon Corp. recently announced plans to build a factory on the former Chrysler site. Efforts continue to preserve and redevelop the Ford plant, a National Historic Landmark, as well as the city's McGregor Library.

"I definitely see positive signs now," said Carl Pettway, who grew up in Highland Park but lives in Detroit. He opened a barber shop, Fade Away, on Woodward several years ago. "People my age who graduated in the 1980s still have relatives here. I hear a lot of people talking about moving back. I'm looking to see big things happen here in Highland Park."

Even an outsider like Mark Hackshaw sees potential.

Hackshaw, a real estate developer and entrepreneur, initially came to the Detroit area from the East Coast to run a car dealership. Instead, he bought the eight-story Medical Arts Building on Woodward and restored it.

"If you look back on the history of Highland Park, it's always had the ability to create things here," said Hackshaw.

"We can't look for someone else to come to Highland Park and save it. We need to do it, and I see it happening. Coca-Cola is here. Visteon Corp. is coming, and new stores are opening. It's going to happen."

http://www.detnews.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070416/METRO/704160318&theme=Metro-Woodward

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have to say and concede, I'm not so sure I share the same level of optimism as those that were quoted near the end of the article, but I sure wish Highland Park all the best. In my opinion, the future of Highland Park, like no other enclave and surrounding community, absolutely hinges on Detroit's inner-city revitalization.

Aerial of Highland Park for perspective:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/34/122211308_22a4059b9d_o.jpg

Cleveland Brown
Apr 17, 2007, 1:31 AM
Highland Park meet East Cleveland, East Cleveland meet Highland Park :(

It would be interesting to compare and contrast what factors make HP an absolute failure, yet Hamtramck manages to survive in some fashion. Despite, HP being much wealthier than Hamtramack until the early 70s, I think immigrants have greatly prevented Hamtramck from collapsing.

LMich
Apr 17, 2007, 1:36 AM
Very astute observation. Immigrants have, indeed, saved neighborhing enclave Hamtramck from the complete collapse HP experienced, even though even just a few years ago, they were in very similar financial straits.

I'd always hoped that, somehow, HP could get in on the immigration game, but they haven't for whatever reason. Hamtramck, according to SEMCOG, has posted an 8%+ population gain since 2000, one of the only inner-ring suburbs to grow. Highland Park's population fall has greatly reduced in the past few decades, so it's about bottomed out. I just hope outside investment continues to happen like Coke and Visteon, because the city just doesn't have the means, anymore, to turn itself around.

LMich
Apr 17, 2007, 2:22 AM
Check these out. More photos to go with the story courtesy of the Detroit News Archives and other paper photographers:

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1905-rail-car.jpg
Detroit News archive
An electric rail car passes the original Highland Park Presbyterian Church on Woodward in 1905. Real estate investors, finding it almost impossible to sell their platted areas, promoted the extension of rail transportation from Detroit to the village to encourage land sales.

I can think of few other cities that would be so transformed by a Woodward rapid transit line as Highland Park, connecting people better to now far-flung/displaced jobs outside the city, Detroit, and inner-ring.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1918-HP-High-School.jpg
The new Highland Park High School building on Woodward. Circa 1918.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1926-mcgregor-library.jpg
Built with city bonds on land donated by the McGregor family, the new McGregor Public Library opened in 1926. W. Hawkins Ferry, Detroit's leading architectural critic, described the McGregor Library as one of the most important classically inspired buildings in metropolitan Detroit. A landmark on Woodward for nearly 80 years, in 2003 it was closed and its contents put into storage because the roof leaked and the city lacked money to make repairs.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1922-workers-outside.jpg
Workers outside the Ford Model T assembly plant in Highland Park, Oct. 20, 1922.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1939-woodward.jpg
In the 1930s Highland Park was the model American suburb with more 50,000 residents who lived in the handsome neighborhoods on each side of Woodward. The city prospered because of Ford and Chrysler plants.

(Get the f%ck outta' here! Quote below.)
http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1957-homes.jpg
Highland Park won a national cleanliness award for five consecutive years. Homes on Eason near Second Avenue on Dec. 17, 1957.

(So THIS is why HP's so broke. Quote below.)
http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1957-woodward2.jpg
Business and industry paid about 75% of Highland Park's taxes in 1957 but the tax base had begun to erode in the decade. Population drop continued. Woodward bisects the 2.96 square-mile Detroit enclave.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1966-Chrysler-complex.jpg
Chrysler Highland Park plant and general offices, circa 1966. The city's largest employer, Chrysler moved its corporate headquarters to Auburn Hills in 1994, taking with it an annual $8 million tax payment, a third of Highland Park's tax revenues.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1975-blackwell-hud.jpg
Gale Calhoun, U.S. Housing and Urban Development official, accepts a $1 check from Highland Park Mayor Robert Blackwell, right, on March 19, 1975 for a repossessed four-story 24-unit building. The apartments at 13816 Hamilton, near Pasadena, were rehabilitated for families with low incomes. The purchase marked the beginning of a $14.2 million three-year HUD Community Development fund project aimed at rebuilding most sections of the city. The grant amounted to $395 for each of the 35,000 persons living in Highland Park and was the largest per capita community development grant made by the federal government to any city in the country.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1975-kids-walk-out.jpg
Student leaders at Highland Park High School urged 2,000 students on Sept. 24, 1975 to stay away from classes to protest a $1.6-million district budget cutback that resulted in fewer teachers and larger class sizes.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1977-protest-cop-cuts.jpg
Wives of Highland Park police officers and fire fighters on June 27, 1977 protest fire department layoffs. Mayor Jesse Miller said the layoffs were part of a series of budget cuts.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1982-no-crossing-guards.jpg
Highland Park students on Sept 21, 1982 had been crossing busy streets like Hamilton and Davison on their own for three weeks because 14 part-time crossing guards were laid off to save $43,000. Mayor Robert Blackwell, responding to angry parents, said some of the guards would be restored the following week.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1985-woodward.jpg
The Sears store and Ford assembly plant on Woodward were important to the past successes of their parent corporations. Like Highland Park, now they are having financial problems.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1988-chrysler-acustar-protest.jpg
UAW members march outside Chrysler headquarters in Highland Park on Feb. 25, 1988 protesting the possible sale of Acustar, a parts subsidiary of Chrysler. The workers are concerned that they will lose job security if Acustar is sold.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1994-sears.jpg
Ann Dandron-Duke, right, and Rebecca Binno, both members of the Detroit Area Art Deco Society, stand in front of the old Sears store in Highland Park on April 24, 1994. Binno put the building on her list of the five most endangered Art Deco buildings in the Detroit area. The structure was demolished about a year ago and the land is vacant.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-1997_hp-tornado.jpg
Linda Fortenberry, holding baby Janae, with Jessica, 3, look at their tree-damaged car after a tornado ripped through Highland Park on July 2, 1997. The storm destroyed and damaged hundreds of homes and businesses in Highland Park, Hamtramck and Detroit. It was the most destructive storm in Wayne County history.

http://info.detnews.com/pix/news/2007/woodward_highland2__04162007/w-2007-woodward.jpg
Woodward Avenue, bisecting Highland Park, has been the only constant in the city -- from its farm community beginning, to an industrial powerhouse, and now a struggling, troubled urban center.

JivecitySTL
Apr 17, 2007, 3:50 AM
What a compelling story. I am disgusted by this throw-away society we live in. So little is treasured.

bryson662001
Apr 17, 2007, 4:06 AM
This is the history of urban America. Every American city has towns like this. Even the situation with the car factories isn't unique. Detroit itself is unique however. It is the only American city where people don't find it desireable to get closer to the center and this will hurt Highland Park's chances to recover IMO.

LMich
Apr 17, 2007, 4:22 AM
Do you mean closer to the center as in the central city, or closer to the center as in downtown? The first conjecture would be true, the second one wouldn't be, though. Many (rightly or wrongly) consider the only part of Detroit worth moving to to be downtown or the eastern riverfront.

But, yeah, Highland Park's future is tied inextricably to the success of Detroit's inner-city restoration/revitalization. I fear, though, that the city is still years off, though, as it's just far enough away from the core city neighborhoods to not have the revitalization wave hit it any time soon.

One thing that I feel would almost instantly turn around the city's future for the better would be a rapid transit line up Woodward allowing for greater freedom of movement for the residents (i.e. more reliable transit to reach jobs in the suburbs, other areas of Detroit...)

Cleveland Brown
Apr 17, 2007, 1:04 PM
Very astute observation. Immigrants have, indeed, saved neighborhing enclave Hamtramck from the complete collapse HP experienced, even though even just a few years ago, they were in very similar financial straits.

I'd always hoped that, somehow, HP could get in on the immigration game, but they haven't for whatever reason. Hamtramck, according to SEMCOG, has posted an 8%+ population gain since 2000, one of the only inner-ring suburbs to grow. Highland Park's population fall has greatly reduced in the past few decades, so it's about bottomed out. I just hope outside investment continues to happen like Coke and Visteon, because the city just doesn't have the means, anymore, to turn itself around.

I actually remember Highland Park from the late 80s / early 90s. According to older folks, HP served as the Southfield of its day with black folks with higher income moving into a "better" area since many of the suburbs north or 8-mile and south of the city were still quite hostile or out of price. Needless to say, many remaining white families fled (Hamtramck illegally blocked black entrance and effectively evicted the blacks living there before the 1960s).

From my memories, late 80s Highland Park still had wonderful neighborhoods, but it had two major problems: (1) A very aged population that was not replaced by young, new middle class families (the population was replaced by low income residents) and (2) declining businesses and tax base. Indeed, I remember walking through Sears (honestly the oddest/dirtiest/unorganized Sears store ever) and Highland Appliances. Despite all of these problems I still remember seeing dental/medical offices along Woodward, appliance/electronics stores, and other traditional retail like in some ghetto NYC neighborhoods or Hamtramck. After Chrysler in the early 90s left taking most of the tax base, the city went to shit, shit, shit.

Honestly, IMHO it only took HP about 5-7 years to go from a "black Hamtramck" to the disaster now. Hamtramck decided to replace its residents with white, eastern europeans at first (arguably an extension of its polish base) then later with immigrants from SE Asia and the Mid-East. HP's black middle class died or fled to "better" areas in Detroit or in the suburbs.

Crawford
Apr 17, 2007, 2:35 PM
Very astute observation. Immigrants have, indeed, saved neighborhing enclave Hamtramck from the complete collapse HP experienced, even though even just a few years ago, they were in very similar financial straits.

I'd always hoped that, somehow, HP could get in on the immigration game, but they haven't for whatever reason. Hamtramck, according to SEMCOG, has posted an 8%+ population gain since 2000, one of the only inner-ring suburbs to grow. Highland Park's population fall has greatly reduced in the past few decades, so it's about bottomed out. I just hope outside investment continues to happen like Coke and Visteon, because the city just doesn't have the means, anymore, to turn itself around.

I think the main difference is race. Highland Park is basically 100% black. Entirely black communities tend not to be receiving points for new immigration.

Another difference is ethnic succession. Hamtramck had a very high proportion of Polish senior citizens, and as they passed on, South Asians and others filled the void.

Michi
Apr 17, 2007, 3:12 PM
^So, then Hamtramck is threatened. The black population of Hamtramck is on the rise, at least minimally.

Crawford
Apr 17, 2007, 3:26 PM
^So, then Hamtramck is threatened. The black population of Hamtramck is on the rise, at least minimally.

I'm not saying that more blacks = fewer immigrants. I'm saying that an entirely black city like Highland Park will not be a natural receiving point for (non-black) international immigration. There's racism in other countries too and metro Detroit already has tons of cheap neighborhoods.

The only possible exceptions I can think of for metro Detroit would be:

1. Hmong immigration on the East Side of Detroit (this happened a couple years back and many are now moving to Warren and Sterling Heights)

2. Mexican immigration on the North Side of Pontiac (this is very recent)

Neither neighborhood is as poor, decayed or racially isolated as Highland Park.

LMich
Apr 18, 2007, 12:02 AM
Crawford, you did bring up another point that bothered me, and that's immigrants being wary or scared of Highland Parks racial/ethnic make up, which is really a shame. It's a self-perpetuating problem, though, and I don't know how to solve it. It's the same reason why cheap-as-hell Detroit isn't able to pull in immigrants at the rate it should. If Highland Park can only attract increasingly lower income residents, which, in this case, happen to be black, than there isn't any hope for it.

Hamtramck has had its growing pains, though, and very recently. Just a few years back there was this huge clash between the newly arrived Muslim communities, and the old Polish Catholic folks over a mosque putting out an early morning call to prayer over a loudspeaker. There were many that had legitimate concerns, but it was plainly obvious to everyone that the greatest outcry was simply those afraid of seeing their communities ethnic make-up change.

Still, Hamtramck is still 60% white, and of that there is still a strong Polish ancestary base: 26%, the largest claimed ancestary in the city. What's impressive, though, is that for the clashes, it's still a relatively tight community. 41% of the population, in 2000, was foreign born, so it really crowds out any of the mobilized xenophobic movements that may crop up here in there.

hudkina
Apr 20, 2007, 1:12 AM
54% of Hamtramck's residents speak english as a second language.

99% of Highland Park's residents were born in the United States.

Obviously, the primary reason the two cities are like night and day is immigration.;)