Scores on points but no concrete solutions offered in this particular article.....
Strolling in Market Square, a place of unrealized possibilities
by Robert Rivard
Web Posted: 02/22/2009 12:00 CST
http://www.mysanantonio.com/news/col...ibilities.html
There isn't a locally grown fruit or vegetable for sale in the old San Antonio Farmers Market on West Commerce Street, and too many of the Mexican goods for sale there and at the adjacent El Mercado are inauthentic and cheaply rendered.
What once was “hecho en Mexico” is too often made in China.
Like most locals, I don't get there very often, so I spent a few hours Friday strolling through the properties, visiting with shop owners, talking up customers and examining merchandise.
The city of San Antonio owns and manages Market Square, as well as La Villita and The Spanish Governor's Palace. The Cortez family is the dominant private-sector operator at Market Square, home to their wildly popular Mi Tierra restaurant and bakery and La Margarita cantina.
My visit came in the wake of the disclosure a little more than a week ago by Express-News reporter Guillermo X. Garcia that city officials were engaged in private discussions with the Cortez family about the possible sale of Market Square.
Why, I wondered, was the city willing to part with such a historically significant downtown property, even if the buildings and much of what is housed in them lacks historical or cultural significance?
It's not my intention to slam the dozens of small-business owners who have shops and stalls at Market Square. Most are hanging on by a thread, especially in this declining economy, and all the shop owners I spoke with said they felt undermined by a disinterested city government.
I did find exquisiteartesanía in a few shops: Day of the Dead dolls from Guanajuato, Oaxacan animal fantasias, authentic Talavera from Puebla, and delicate, hand-sewn baptismal gowns for infants.
But most of what is for sale gives the place the telltale look of a tourist trap. Visitors leave with trinkets or a fake Mexican blanket. For a city that serves as a gateway to Mexico and is defined in large part by its Mexican roots, the message to tourists is one of cultural devaluation.
I am an unabashed aficionado of mercados and farmers markets. Years living and working in Latin America left me with a deep love for meandering through warrens of stalls, sampling new foods, chatting up farmers and vendors, savoring caldos and tacos and pupusas prepared over open fires.
Even in the United States, the market experience can be an extraordinary one. Pike Place Market in Seattle and the Portland Farmers Market in Oregon attract locals and visitors alike, as does my favorite, the historic Los Angeles Farmers Market, where one can enjoy the best taquitos outside Mexico City and then stroll a few yards to a first-class wine shop.
Google any of these markets and enjoy a well-designed virtual tour if you have never been, then check out this city's utterly phony Web page maintained by its Downtown Department:
“Welcome to San Antonio's most unique and exciting shopping, dining and entertaining experiences. Here in the romantic center of the Mexican Culture, discover a land of treasures, bright, bold and beautiful. Market Square... authentically Mexico and enriched with a fascinating legacy of public markets.”
There is nothing authentic or accurate about any of that.
Unless the city steps back and completely rethinks Market Square and the possibilities there, the place is doomed to economic drift. The Cortez family will fare well because they are superb operators, but the public will only see unrealized possibilities.
Many of us await the opening of the much-anticipated Farmers Market at the Pearl Brewery, between the San Antonio River and Broadway. But Market Square is the public gateway to this city's West Side. People should be able to stroll to the markets from Main Plaza or other nearby venues and, once there, enjoy a truly memorable experience.
Robert Rivard is the editor of the Express-News. E-mail him at
rrivard@express-news.net.