Best neighborhoods to move to?

[alex1]

My fiance and I are trying to avoid moving to nYc now that I'm done with school. The only part of the country I haven't lived is the northwest, so, we're both interested in perhaps moving to Portland despite never having visited.

The question becomes; where should we look to find and apartment? She likes vintage neighborhoods and a dog friendly park for the little black lab. I like vibrant, well knit communities that have rail transit, a good mix of non-chain establishments and haven't been destroyed too much by urban renewal. So basically a cohesive environment. We're both artists, so being around other artists is a plus but not necessary.

Obviously, as a recent grad (and she's transfering schools to downtown Portland) we're looking for something relatively inexpensive. $1400 max and with at least 2 bedrooms.

Thoughts/suggestions? Thanks!

[Sekkle]

(I should preface this by saying I've only lived here for 2 years, and I don't even live in the city of Portland "proper", so others can give you more and better detail, I'm sure).

Northwest is the first place that comes to mind when you said "vintage neighborhoods." Tons of apartments. The streetcar runs there, so there's your rail transit. Goose Hollow is near there, too, and the MAX (light rail) runs through that 'hood.

In southeast, there are plenty of cool areas. Hawthorne and Belmont are probably to two biggies, but there's no rail transit nearby (there are buses, though, and it's a quick bike ride into downtown).

North/Northeast has Alberta and Mississippi, the latter of which is walkable (but not right adjacent) to the MAX. Neither of these two have tons of apartments, but they're cool areas and I'm sure you could find a place to rent there. Both arty neighborhoods.

The Pearl District has the streetcar running through it, and plenty of walkable streets, but it's probably higher rent, oh, and the urban renewal there is out of control (not that that's a bad thing).

Oh, and downtown is cool and has both the MAX and the streetcar.

There are local, non-chain shops & restaurants all over the city, moreso than pretty much any city I can think of on a per-capita basis. I don't know what rents are like in the various neighborhoods, but I'm pretty sure you'd be able to find something in the $1400 range or under.

Oh, and if you click the "Portland Threads" link in my signature there are lots of Portland photo-threads you can check out, some of which are specific to certain neighborhoods.

[NJD]

I think Sekkle is right about Northwest, it has everything that both of you require. Inner Northeast (Glisan & 28th, Mississippi, Fremont) and Southeast (Clinton, Hawthorne, Belmont, Brooklyn) are both good options as well if you want a noticeably slower pace, but there are trade offs like proximity to rail vrs. larger dog parks than Northwest. Anyway the boundaries of Northwest are West Burnside to the South, I-405 Freeway to the East, Hwy. 30/ NW Vaughn St. to the North, and approximately NW Westover Rd. to the West. Wen you look at maps of the area (i.e. google maps) you'll see Legacy Good Samaritan Hospital in the dead center of the neighborhood. More info from Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northwest_District,_Portland,_Oregon

[holladay]

I agree that NW is a great first bet when you're new to Portland. I lived there for 18 months when I first got to Portland. It's a quick - and interesting - walk to downtown. There's two huge parks right at the edge of the neighborhood: Washington Park and Forest Park (Google them, they're worth it!) I lived in a 1930 art deco apartment building with 1 bedroom, original woodwork, hardwoods, and great windows for $975. But that was before the market plunged so prices have since dropped. For $1200 you should be able to find a nice 2 bedroom in the area, but they can be hard to find. Craigslist is your best resource. The area has two main shopping/dining streets: 21st and 23rd Aves. 21st is mainly the bar street, 23rd is the dining/shopping street. Locally the area is considered "yuppie-ish", but I came from nouveau-riche Atlanta and didn't find it yuppie-ish at all. It all depends on your perspective really.

If, however, you want to live in the "real" Portland, you probably want to be on the Eastside. Like Sekkle said, Hawthorne, Belmont, and Mississippi are really the nerve centers of local culture. Virtually everywhere between the river and 50th-60th Avenue is close in and easily accessible to downtown via bike or bus. The great thing about Portland is that the city was built substantially between 1900-1930, meaning that all over the Eastside you will find great bungalow neighborhoods. In your price range you should be able to get a really sweet bungalow with a big front porch, room for a garden, 2-3 bedrooms, and lots of character. You can be down the street from brewpubs, coffee houses, restaurants, markets, etc. Plus you will be immersed in the local vibe. NW is great, but it won't give you that at all because of the people who live there. Since you can afford this, I would completely recommend that you go for it. If I had the money that's where I would be living. Just start looking on Craigslist for houses. As a general rule, I'd say if convenience to downtown is important to you, don't go north of Lombard, south of Division, or east of 39th Ave. That gives you a pretty big bounding box of most of the cool areas of town.

[alex1]

This is some wonderful information, guys. Thanks very much for going beyond what I ever expected.

The responses even have me looking forward to getting out of the East Coast, as nice as it can be out here.

[bvpcvm]

If, however, you want to live in the "real" Portland, you probably want to be on the Eastside. Like Sekkle said, Hawthorne, Belmont, and Mississippi are really the nerve centers of local culture.

I've been a homeowner in NW for about 8 years now, I have to say that this does seem to be true. NW is nice, but Belmont and Hawthorne feel more "authentic". Also, NW has a large population of old people. Lots of students as well, but, whenever I go over to SE I think "so THAT's where the young(er) people are".

[awg]

One other thing to keep in mind if you are a recent graduate with a degree in architecture: there are likely zero jobs here for architecture students (not that there is much in any field, but it will be very very difficult to find a gig if it is related to architecture). I could envision this lasting through summer and possibly until the start of the new year. Who knows, could be longer. Its a gnarly time for architects right now. Unemployment rate for architects has to be something like 25-30% in the city. If by artist you mean you earn your living by producing art, then I haven't got a good line on what the job field is like for that.

On the other hand, if you can find a job in Portland, its a great city to live in. I grew up here, went to southern cal for school, and moved back after graduation. Downtown or NW are both great places to live if you are a recent graduate. But if you want neighborhood vibe, the east side (Hawthorne, Belmont, Brooklyn, Fremont, Alberta, Mississippi, and Sellwood) are all pretty cool. None of them have great rail connections, but you can bike to downtown in 15 - 20 minutes from all of them.

[MarkDaMan]

If living nearby the rail is a bigger issue, try places off the MAX Yellow line. Sure, Interstate Avenue is lacking some of that 'neighborhoodiness' but it is in transformation now that the rail has been open for two years.

Rent is considerably cheaper too, could probably snag a house within 8 blocks of the line for less than $1400 a month.

for example:

http://portland.craigslist.org/search/apa?query=north+portland&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max&bedrooms=2

[urbanlife]

Also another area to keep in mind is the Clinton St Neighborhood. It is a great mix in that area. Though for 1400, you should have any problems finding a place to live here.

[2oh1]

If you choose to move to NW Portland, I can't imagine you regretting the decision. NW is a great neighborhood, and it's part of four neighborhoods that are very walkable (the other three being Downtown, The Pearl and Goose Hollow). I live downtown and I love it, but if I were to move, NW would be my 2nd choice.

[Delaney]

The east side neighborhoods are indeed the place to be, but much more auto focused than people like to admit. When I lived over there I drove 90% of the time. Now that I live downtown I drive maybe 2 or 3 times a month. I may be not as hip, but definitely nicer lifestyle for me personally.

[urbanlife]

The east side neighborhoods are indeed the place to be, but much more auto focused than people like to admit. When I lived over there I drove 90% of the time. Now that I live downtown I drive maybe 2 or 3 times a month. I may be not as hip, but definitely nicer lifestyle for me personally.

You definitely drive less when you live downtown, mostly because if where you are going is also downtown, it is annoying to drive around trying to find parking in a downtown that is so easy to walk in. The thing with the SE is that you do use a car or bike for almost all of your commutes, but everything is such a short distance on the east side, that you find each car trip being very local and using very little gas.

[2oh1]

You definitely drive less when you live downtown, mostly because if where you are going is also downtown, it is annoying to drive around trying to find parking in a downtown that is so easy to walk in.

There's more to it than that. Our side of the river is comprised of neighborhoods packed closer together simply because there's less land over here, so it's really nothing to walk from one neighborhood to another whereas my friends in SE drive from neighborhood to neighborhood. Going to watch the soapbox derby at Mt Tabor this summer? Odds are, you're driving there. Want to grab a drink at the Horse Brass afterwards? Again, you're driving. On the other hand, if they're doing Shakespeare in the park at Washington Park... that's an easy walk from downtown. And then, a drink at the Rogue isn't too far even though you have to walk through Goose Hollow, NW and The Pearl to get there.

Pull up a map and look at the sheer size of SE. It's more than double (probably triple) the size of all four of the neighborhoods on the west side the river combined: Downtown, The Pearl, NW and Goose Hollow. Compare the distance just based on the number of city blocks... NW 23rd is obviously 23 blocks from the river, most of them small. Mt. Tabor is SIXTY blocks from the river, and they're much larger blocks. And then look at how far south of Burnside SE stretches. That's a lot of land.

Also, we drive less downtown because we have more mass transit (ok, it's mostly the light rail that we really use around here). The streetcar takes us through downtown, the Pearl and NW, and AX goes right through Goose Hollow - soon into The Pearl and even more of downtown too.

[65MAX]

Compare the distance just based on the number of city blocks... NW 23rd is obviously 23 blocks from the river, most of them small. Mt. Tabor is SIXTY blocks from the river, and they're much larger blocks.

Actually, that's incorrect. The blocks throughout Portland, east and west, are the same size. Twenty blocks in Portland is equal to 1 mile, the smallest blocks of any major city in the country. Of course, there are fewer gridded neighborhoods on the westside outside of the central city. And the further out you go into NE and SE, the more superblocks and grid interruptions you encounter. But 42nd is exactly 2 miles from 82nd, 82nd is exactly 2 miles from 122nd, etc. all the way out to Gresham.

Also, in NW, the numbering system changes after 19th. So 19th is actually 2 blocks from 20th, and 23rd is a total of 8 blocks from 19th. I don't know why they did that, just an anomoly, but in this case, NW 23rd is actually 31 blocks from the river (measuring from the Burnside Bridge) while NE/SE 23rd is 23 blocks from the river. Mt Tabor (or more precisely, SE 60th in the Mt Tabor neighborhood) is exactly 3 miles from the river.

[2oh1]

Fascinating! That's new info to me - add it to the list of things I love about Portland! ...Still... SE 82nd is 82 blocks - just over four miles - whereas 23rd is really 31 blocks by your measurement. Just over 1.5 miles. And then if you consider how far south SE stretches. My point was that SE is a huge area when compared to the four main inner neighborhoods on the west side.

[alex1]

One other thing to keep in mind if you are a recent graduate with a degree in architecture: there are likely zero jobs here for architecture students (not that there is much in any field, but it will be very very difficult to find a gig if it is related to architecture). I could envision this lasting through summer and possibly until the start of the new year. Who knows, could be longer. Its a gnarly time for architects right now. Unemployment rate for architects has to be something like 25-30% in the city. If by artist you mean you earn your living by producing art, then I haven't got a good line on what the job field is like for that.

On the other hand, if you can find a job in Portland, its a great city to live in. I grew up here, went to southern cal for school, and moved back after graduation. Downtown or NW are both great places to live if you are a recent graduate. But if you want neighborhood vibe, the east side (Hawthorne, Belmont, Brooklyn, Fremont, Alberta, Mississippi, and Sellwood) are all pretty cool. None of them have great rail connections, but you can bike to downtown in 15 - 20 minutes from all of them.

i suppose I'm lucky that I'm not an architect. I'm a designer/fine artist coming out of Yale, so I'm extremely lucky in that regard. I already have solid clients that should get me through this nasty job climate. If not, I figure Portland is a much better place to be jobless then nYc, where things are very expensive.

We're just picking a place where my fiance can finish up her schooling and it not being nYc. We figure that Portland will have plenty of green for the dog to poop on It's also the only part of the country that neither of us are familiar with.

Hopefully things will work out and we'll get out there *crosses fingers*. I have spent a lot of time flipping through the photo threads on here and the city looks to have lots of potential + the nature is amazing.

[pdxdash]

north portland is the new southeast (so 2000) which was the new northwest (the fact that the word 'yuppie' is even bantered around tells you a lot about when that area was hot). Mark da man was right, you should check out the hoods along the Interstate Yellow line (which will soon be directly servicing PSU downtown)...the Kenton neighborhood is particularly sweet.

[65MAX]

I think the Mississippi area, just a quarter mile from the Overlook and Prescott stations on the MAX yellow line, would be a great choice given your criteria.

Also, 2oh1,

Fascinating! That's new info to me - add it to the list of things I love about Portland! ...Still... SE 82nd is 82 blocks - just over four miles - whereas 23rd is really 31 blocks by your measurement. Just over 1.5 miles. And then if you consider how far south SE stretches. My point was that SE is a huge area when compared to the four main inner neighborhoods on the west side.

Yes, SE is the largest part of Portland, both area-wise and population-wise, but there are multiple neighborhoods within that area that are very walkable, diverse and easily accessible, especially the close-in neighborhoods. Belmont is just as accessible as NW 23rd, streetcar or not. Just because it's spread out, doesn't mean SE is less diverse or desirable.

[jaxg8r1]

north portland is the new southeast (so 2000) which was the new northwest (the fact that the word 'yuppie' is even bantered around tells you a lot about when that area was hot). Mark da man was right, you should check out the hoods along the Interstate Yellow line (which will soon be directly servicing PSU downtown)...the Kenton neighborhood is particularly sweet.

Just moved to Kenton myself....and am loving it, thus far.

[Valentij]

I agree that NW is absolutely beautiful, historical, and dense. It is a great place to move to when coming to Portland. However, Alberta has been charming me (and densifying) with each Last Thursday I go to. Mississippi is a fabulous neighborhood. Finally, SE from Laurelhearst to Division is kind of the soul of Portland. I always find myself more relaxed when I'm biking around that area.

That said, I live downtown. I'm a sucker for the confluence of light rail, 5 min walk to work, and ability to stumble home from many, many bars...

[zilfondel]

I've been in Buckman for 2 years, eastside for 2 1/2... no car the whole time. Its definitely doable; most of my friends are also carless. Bus service out here is great, I can take 3 different frequent buslines to downtown, or bike 5 mins to the Hollywood MAX TC.

SE really hasn't yuppified; anyone who says that desperately needs to get out of PDX to get some perspective! I think there are a lot of students and very young people (18-21), punks, hippies, etc, who equate having a job with being "the man."

:shrug:

That being said, 28th is da shit

[iggyskier]

I think it largely depends on the vibe you are more into. I moved down here a year ago and live in NW, a block of Burnside and 21st, and love it. I am more a city guy and sometimes the east side feels a bit slow for me. I love being able to walk anywhere on this side of the river and enjoy feeling more in the city, a feeling I don't get on the east side. NW isn't as yuppie as the Pearl, but you do notice it here sometimes. A lot of times, too, it seems like it is more of a bright and tunnel crowd. I just sort of ignore it. The good stuff far outweighs the bad. The same can be said for some of the east side neighborhoods, where instead of yuppies there are hipsters. Again, you notice it, but not enough for it to outweigh all the cool stuff to do in those neighborhoods too.

I definitely like the east side neighborhoods, and I suspect someday I will end up living over there. Hawthorne, Belmont, and Division are all pretty cool. I like Alberta ok right now. It is a little bit too long/sparse for me right now, but as someone said, it is getting denser and denser, and they have some good restaurants over there, and can see really liking it as it fills in more.

My favorite neighborhood on the east side is probably Mississippi and if I were to move over there right now, that is probably where I would end up. Definitely great vibe, as someone mentioned walkable to light rail, and Flavor spot, which IMO is the best food cart in the city (granted, there are like 400 of them). I would probably eat their waffles everyday if I could walk to it.

I would say visit and check check out each neighborhood for awhile. Spend a day or two around the city. Each neighborhood has a really distinct feel and you will find what suits you best.

I can't say enough about how much I love NW, though. Parking can be a bitch at times, but the access to good bars, restaurants, and fun stuff to do (PGE Park - thirsty thursdays, washington and forest park, plus all of the Pearl/Downtown/Old town) is amazing.

To add a bit more, pricing wise, I live in a 1400 sf 3 bd/1 bath for $1350/month. It is pretty good for the neighborhood, though. I am probably going to be moving out into a one bedroom soon here, and most are around $850-1100/month it seems. Most two bedrooms seem to range from around $1100-1400. But it all depends, as there is definitely deals to be had. Our apartment was just been redone, new floors, etc, when we moved in and we got a great deal on it.

[horatioalfonzo]

I lived downtown for 6 years and last September moved over to SE in the Buckman neighborhood. I love it! It is so close to downtown, the bars are better and the crowd is more my age (mid-twenties.)

I wish there were more grocery store options close-by, but we do have an amazing produce market on 23rd and Hawthorne and the farmers market on Thursdays.

Best of all it is the middle of the city! I can walk to work downtown in about a half hour or bike which takes only 10-15 minutes. I usually don't even bother with the bus. I also own a car and there is free parking over here, which is nice because parking it downtown put me back like $150 per month.

[msallen]

NW is where I find a lot of new migrants to the city move to..many students as well. I live in NW near 21st and it is very convenient to everything. Walk to multiple groceries, shops, cafes, bars, banks. Can walk to Forest and Washington parks. Streetcar goes directly to PSU, Pearl, library, downtown, etc..however it is very easily walkable when the weather is decent. It is the densest populated part of the city and feels more urban than most of Portland.

Inner-South East (N of Powell, W of 39th)is pretty awesome as well. A little more spread out, but more of a neighborhood feeling. Many young people as well, especially in Buckman. No rail, as said before but the busses are just as efficient and a bike ride is a breeze to most destinations. Most of the trendiest (hipster not yuppie) bars and cafes are over there too.

SE is probably the most festive part of the city. On a warm summer evening you can walk around any random neighborhood and find a house party/show or see makeshift dance parties in Col. Summers park. Many times you will see more bikes than cars. You can also have a garden as opposed to NW.

NE/N are even more quiet but up and coming. It's harder to walk to a grocery store or to find a place to buy a 6 pack after 10pm. Mississippi is pretty cool if you like a quieter neighborhood. Also sometimes a more affordable housing stock.

[alex1]

tonight we'll be in Portland, and by next Tuesday we'll have decided whether we're making the jump or not.

Thanks for all your help. It has definitely helped as we've made some appointments with a few places in and around downtown. We'll also definitely check out many of the other neighborhoods you all mentioned.

Cheers!

[alexjon]

There are some lofts hiding in the Central Eastside that you could probably snag on the cheap before the Eastside Streetcar Loop gets there. Check out the west end of Buckman or Hosford-Abernathy. You'll get a streetcar, access to MAX (At the Lloyd Center now, down by OMSI in 2015), and tons of bike access.

Just look around for sale signs down there.

[Okstate]

^^ Since you're in town, hit up the South Park Farmers Market Saturday! It is awesome Portlandness.

[alex1]

Unfortunately, my fiance wasn't impressed with the school.

At the minimum, we got to visit a truly nice city and all your advice helped us visit many parts of the city that we would have missed otherwise.

Portland surprised us in how friendly people are, how clean, safe and eco-friendly it truly is. It disappointed in terms of mass transit and sprawl containment. Mainly due to glowing press raising my expectations to unreal levels for a mid-sized American city.

We really enjoyed the Southeast and Alberta. The Alphabet neighborhood was nice as well. We weren't insanely impressed with the Pearl, but we would have definitely moved to a place called Asa due to the sweeping views of the city (west to southeast), awesome dog park blocks away, having Safeway across the street and the transit options out front. There were some nuggets (stores/restaurants) intertwined with all the national chains like PF Changs and other retailers.

I'm really bummed that nYc is our final choice. I've been down all day today. I just don't have the heart for New York City anymore.

In any regard, you all have a wonderful city to call home and everyone we met was so proud of Portland. It's wonderful to see that pride permeate throughout the whole place!

[Okstate]

1.) It disappointed in terms of mass transit and sprawl containment. Mainly due to glowing press raising my expectations to unreal levels for a mid-sized American city.

2.) We weren't insanely impressed with the Pearl


1.) Maybe not unreal but certainly almost unrivaled(for a mid-sized American city).

2.) This is VERY common amongst tourists/newbies. What people don't understand is that the Pearl is for the "most" part an actual, functioning urban neighborhood. It is NOT designed to be an entertainment/shopping/dining district...it just HAPPENS to have sprinkles of all that...which a good urban neighborhood SHOULD. Urban neighborhoods (like the Pearl) should be the norm NOT the exception.

I'm sorry to hear about the school not being up to par. I hope your time was enjoyed.

[alex1]

1.)
2.) This is VERY common amongst tourists/newbies. What people don't understand is that the Pearl is for the "most" part an actual, functioning urban neighborhood. It is NOT designed to be an entertainment/shopping/dining district...it just HAPPENS to have sprinkles of all that...which a good urban neighborhood SHOULD. Urban neighborhoods (like the Pearl) should be the norm NOT the exception.


I don't disagree with anything you say. The let-down for us didn't have anything to do with it being a destination neighborhood or not (although it does tend to function as that). We just found that it lacked the soul some other neighborhoods had.

But like I said, the views are spectacular from some of the higher units and it had wonderful amenities nonetheless.

[Okstate]

^ Understand & agree.